Anyone use Royal Purple?

[Project84]

My saturn daily driver burns a quart of oil every 1,000 mi. This is just like any saturn of the years prior to 2000 (ish) so I'm not worried. This being the case, I used synthetic blend oils (high mileage) and don't give anything else a second thought.

[GasSavers_tillo]

I used it in a 95 chevy 350 and the truck seemed to drink about a quart each oil change so I discontinued.

[Zvolen]

Originally Posted by Project84

My saturn daily driver burns a quart of oil every 1,000 mi. This is just like any saturn of the years prior to 2000 (ish) so I'm not worried. This being the case, I used synthetic blend oils (high mileage) and don't give anything else a second thought.

Not EVERY Saturn, I have a 1998 and it currently burns NO oil between changes, which are approx 3-4k miles.

[GasSavers_SD26]

Ok, since we're on an using oil tangent, I'll thread jack a bit. Anyone try Auto-RX to clean out the engine? Might help when using oil. Really thinking about it on my bus with 250k diesel miles.

[Greybrick]

Motul 8100 E-tech Lite 0W-30 or Motul 8100 E-tech 0W-40

http://www.motul-canada.com/main.htm

Synthetic complex ester based, -60?C / -76?F pour points on both.

[8307c4]

Originally Posted by michaelwoodcock

This oil gave me better cold starting over non synthetic oil. I guess all Synthetics do that though?
that is all i have to offer as far as the oil goes. Oh, and it does not makd noticable deposits

Sure do, I buy my synthetic when it goes on sale BOGO by the cases, that or Walmart sells the 5 quart bottles for around 12.50-$15 some times. I run synthetic in everything but I can't afford $6 a quart see.

Now at $3 a quart I would be a fool not to use it, stock up when you can, at one time I had right about 100 quarts lol, great stuff.

Only thing to remember is don't mix brands between oil changes, use the same brand from one oil change to the next so make sure to get enough. In my case I also always use 10w-30 so there's no confusion there.

.......................
As for motor flush, for gasoline engines I use straight kerosene but there's a process involved! If you're not sure, the first time get a can of Motor Flush at Advance it gives you the procedure (and it also costs $8 a quart and I am sure it is 90% or better all Kerosene inside).
Great stuff, but I wouldn't do it unless you have good reason to strongly suspect a serious internal gunk problem.

[Greybrick]

Originally Posted by 8307c4

Sure do, I buy my synthetic when it goes on sale BOGO by the cases, that or Walmart sells the 5 quart bottles for around 12.50-$15 some times. I run synthetic in everything but I can't afford $6 a quart see.

Since about the late 1990's when Castrol by court order was allowed the use of the word 'synthetic' to describe group III refined dino based oils, 'synthetic' really has no meaning and doesn't give any basis for chosing an engine or gear lubricant imo. Go figure what the term 'semi-synthetic' might mean.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Synthetic_oil

.

[bowtieguy]

Originally Posted by Greybrick

Since about the late 1990's when Castrol by court order was allowed the use of the word 'synthetic' to describe group III refined dino based oils, 'synthetic' really has no meaning and doesn't give any basis for chosing an engine or gear lubricant imo. Go figure what the term 'semi-synthetic' might mean.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Synthetic_oil

.

this is why my source tells me to use a PAO(maybe POA) based synthetic. they are legit... amsoil and mobile 1 have this base for sure.

[Greybrick]

Originally Posted by bowtieguy

this is why my source tells me to use a PAO(maybe POA) based synthetic. they are legit... amsoil and mobile 1 have this base for sure.

Poly-Alpha-Olefin (PAO) based oils are excellent in that they are stable and don't pick up fuel water by-products either, but because of their lack of polarity they don't carry friction reducing additives well so they need to be mixed with either polarity type ester oils or dino based oils for that function. The end of the day tale is found in VOA /UOA oil analysis comparisions though imo. Check out BITOG for further;

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/

[Greybrick]

Motul USA;

http://www.motorspot.com/index1.html