Quote:
Originally Posted by 88HF
If that doesn't work I'll be attempting to move the timing belt, but I'm not sure which way to move it a notch. Am I correct in saying that the 3 and 9 o'clock marks are supposed to line up with the head?
|
Correct. You want to set the engine so no.1 cylinder (the one closest to the timing belt) is at top dead center (TDC) of it's compression stroke. If you line those notches up with the valve cover mating surface, the cam will be properly aligned.
![](https://www.fuelly.com/attachments/forum/photobucket/img_63598_0_5b6002cbbdb20ce92a32265bb080a71d.jpg)
If you look at the crank pulley (the pulley that drives the alternator and A/C belts), you should see 4 notches cut into it's rim. The cluster of 3 is for ignition timing, the 4th mark is TDC - the mark you need.
![](https://www.fuelly.com/attachments/forum/photobucket/img_63598_1_ced63d09d02b06abef46648d99f151b4.jpg)
The with the cam marks where they should be, the TDC mark should be lined up with the pointer/sight thing molded into the lower timing belt cover. If not, your cam timing is off.
Loosen the timing belt tensioner - it's behind the black plug in the lower timing belt cover. Just carefully pry the plug out with a small flathead screwdriver. Break the tensioner bolt loose and then keep going two or three turns to free up some slack on the belt. Be careful not to unscrew the tensioner bolt all the way... You would likely have to remove the crank pulley and lower belt cover if you did.
Slip the belt off the side of the cam gear. The belt's not designed to bend the way you're trying to bend it, so don't be surprised if it's a little difficult.
Turn the crank until the TDC mark lines up with the pointer/sight thing on the timing belt cover.
Slip the belt back on the cam gear. Obviously you want to avoid moving either the crank or cam out of alignment while working the belt back on, but try to keep the front, long run of the timing belt tight if you can... It's the run that counts timing wise.
Once the belt is on, thread the tensioner bolt back in until you've picked up the slack (the point where you would go from simply threading it in to tightening), then back it off a half turn so the tensioner can move. Turn the crank counter-clockwise a quarter turn to put tension on that long run of the belt, and all the slack on the tensioner/water pump side. Tighten down the tensioner bolt... The torque spec is 33 ft/lbs if you have a torque wrench.
Keep turning the crank counter-clockwise until the cam is back at #1 TDC. Check that the crank is also at TDC.
Replace the tensioner bolt plug and upper timing belt cover.
Quote:
Originally Posted by mrmad
Another thing that could be causing your car to run so bad is a clogged catalytic converter. If you can stand listening to it for a test, you might remove the cat and drive it around the block.
|
Yeah, if you don't mind flames shooting out of the manifold at the back of your radiator.