2005 Suzuki Forenza FE questions...

[19bonestock88]

So its time for me to ask my first set of questions about my car and my planned direction of modifications...

So far what i have noticed is... (all data collected with UltraGauge)

While driving, the temperature never seems to exceed 190-195( more like 185 lately) degrees... Would i see any gain (without overheating or major power loss) from getting it to run a little warmer? Like up to 200-210 degrees? Of course this would have to be managed in the summer to avoid overheating... I would try to achieve this using a grille block, prototype would be made from aluminum foil and taped on... Final design would be from chloroplast( if i can find some that isnt stupid expensive) and would likely attach with removable brackets so i could revert to stock in 5 minutes or less...

While i drive, as engine load climbs over 36-40%, the car starts pulling timing, down to almost zero advance if i were to floor it... Could i aid this by running higher octane fuel?

[trollbait]

That is normal operating temp for most cars. Running it higher will likely have little effect, and could cause some performance issues as the ECU tries to keep things running in spec. It is an Ecotec engine, and I have seen temps go above 210 in the HHR without problems. I had a grill block and insulation around the engine along with the snorkle removed.

That said, a grill block can have benefit in aerodynamics and quicker warm up time. Removing the snorkle between the airbox and the outside so engine bay air is drawn in can also speed up warm up. Getting to operating temp as quickly as possible has a big benefit in the winter.

Look for signs after election season to get free coroplast.

You'll need to research the engine, but if it doesn't have the compression and fuel map for higher octane, there won't be any benefit in using it.

[theholycow]

Good points. Coroplast signs also show up all year in the form of road spam. I don't take ones for local stores, festivals, etc, but when they are obnoxiously overused or are for dating websites or something like that, that's fair game IMO.

You really need to replace the thermostat to get a higher temperature though. If you block it up so bad that it goes significantly above the current thermostat's range during normal driving, you'll end up overheating badly in some situations.

I'm not sure higher octane won't result in better timing even if the car isn't programmed for it, but I bet it'll never produce enough increase in fuel economy to be worth the money (or possibly even enough to measure).

[19bonestock88]

Originally Posted by trollbait

That is normal operating temp for most cars. Running it higher will likely have little effect, and could cause some performance issues as the ECU tries to keep things running in spec.It is an Ecotec engine, and I have seen temps go above 210 in the HHR without problems...

You'll need to research the engine, but if it doesn't have the compression and fuel map for higher octane, there won't be any benefit in using it.

Ehh... Not an ecotec engine.., i think its an opel/vauxhall design (u20sed)... I only wish it were an ecotec, lol...i imagine the engine is really lacking somewhere other than its stupid short gearing... Its a 2 liter 16 valve engine making only 126bhp, and running 9.6:1 CR... The fuel map isnt supposedly a big issue, with a aggressive power tune with a SAFC-II netting a gain of about 2-3whp... Not sure where the inefficiency lies...

[trollbait]

Originally Posted by 19bonestock88

Ehh... Not an ecotec engine.., i think its an opel/vauxhall design (u20sed)... I only wish it were an ecotec, lol...i imagine the engine is really lacking somewhere other than its stupid short gearing... Its a 2 liter 16 valve engine making only 126bhp, and running 9.6:1 CR... The fuel map isnt supposedly a big issue, with a aggressive power tune with a SAFC-II netting a gain of about 2-3whp... Not sure where the inefficiency lies...

You're right. It is in the engine family with the Ecotec but isn't one itself.

Found this: Talk:List of GM engines - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
The D on the engine code is for Daewoo. Don't know what the U is for though.

[19bonestock88]

That is a really interesting bit of information... I just heard of the stock forenza engine being called a u20sed...

On another note... First tank since adding the ultragauge was 9.2 gal for 258 miles, or about 28 mpg... Which wouldnt be that significant but one trip home from my work(approx 10 miles of two lane road, speed limit 55 and 45, i averaged 73.7 mph... I was in a big hurry, lol

[trollbait]

THC mentioned using a higher temp thermostat to get the engine temperature up. Increases were reported doing so in other cars. Older cars with less computer integration. Newer models will run the fan more, trying to cool things. It might even throw a code. If there is no noticable change in the engine's operation, a lit engine light means the car is likely not running in closed loop, and using a default fuel map that will be less efficient.

[19bonestock88]

So... I have made my first eco-mod... As ambient temps dropped, i had watched my engine temp drop into the low 170's/ high 160's... I blocked off my lower grille openings with scotch blue tape and now my temps are in the high 180's and low 190's... It also seems possible to cruise at a slightly lower engine load, saving fuel...

[19bonestock88]

I have another question not related to my last post... I dont think my vehicle has a provision for DFCO... When i let off the accelerator, my instant MPG jumps to between 80 and 120, based on my speed, and engine load drops to less than 20%... I can disengage the clutch and it goes up nearly twofold, seeing as high as 244 mpg coasting with disengaged clutch at 70 mph... Does this mean i dont have dfco, or that im not monitoring the right readouts?

[trollbait]

Originally Posted by 19bonestock88

I have another question not related to my last post... I dont think my vehicle has a provision for DFCO... When i let off the accelerator, my instant MPG jumps to between 80 and 120, based on my speed, and engine load drops to less than 20%... I can disengage the clutch and it goes up nearly twofold, seeing as high as 244 mpg coasting with disengaged clutch at 70 mph... Does this mean i dont have dfco, or that im not monitoring the right readouts?

I'm not familiar with the Ultragauge, but older firmware versions of the Scangauge wouldn't recognize DFCO in the instant mpg. You could infer it from other readouts though. I used the loop one. During DFCO, the loop will read open, which shouldn't happen with a warmed up engine if everything is working as it should.

There is also the possibility that there is DFCO, but it isn't real aggressive. With the HHR, it only engaged at interstate speeds, or I had to down shift the auto. I believe that manuals tend on the aggressive side for DFCO.

As to your other post, a grill block is better than blocking the radiator in that it does clean up some air flow.