90 CRX DX in Orange, CA

[atomride]

Hello All. I am looking into dropping a D15Z1 in my 1990 CRX. I figure it's best to post things about this here instead of a board where performance (and high emissions) is the aim. I have a local engine place that can supply me a
D15Z1 for $375, just looking now for what else I need. Thanks in advance to everyone who might send a Noob some advice and help! - Mike

[101mpg]

Welcome!

[pyramid_head]

Welcome to the site! Hope all goes well. By the way, i may have some parts that you may need.

[itjstagame]

I would think you need the wiring and ECU. I think that is one of the engines that you can use the stock Si or HF harness and just hook up the engine's ECU and then run 1 wire for VTEC.

But you've got a DX, so you'll have to swap in one of the other harness first or mix and match a VX harness into yours.

I can't wait to see your results, I can't find a VX engine anywhere near here and don't want to part a fully car for 5 times the price you were quoted, nice price.

[Gary Palmer]

Welcome to GasSavers.

If your planning on putting that engine in, you may wish to consider trying to get a non-California HF transmission to go with it. The transmission gearing seemed to me to be 50% of the improvement in mileage, in going from a DX engine to a VX engine.

If you have a DX, you'll need to modify or purchase a modification cable adapter from someone like Rywire. The DX uses a throttle body injection system, where the VX engine uses a separate injector on each intake runner.

You will also need to get a ecu for a 92-95 VX. IF you get a non-California one, you will need the 5 wire, lean fuel oxygen sensor, which may come with the engine. If you are going for mileage, you should get better mileage with the non-California ecu. The California one uses a 4 wire Oxygen sensor. It still does well, but it is probably about 3-5 miles/gallon below a non-California unit.

From what I understand when you get it all operating properly, you can still get it to pass the smog tests.

[GeneW]

I have a 1990 CRX DX with a 4 speed automatic. The car itself has decent aerodynamics. However it's cramped and I suspect quite dangerous in a side collision. My CRX has seen better days. I am selling it "As Is" because of extensive rust damage and wear and tear. Sadly, of course.

I lived in terror of some SUV with a distracted driver squashing me. On the other hand the low profile gave it great stability in turns. The CRX is quite agile, I was able to dart in and out of traffic to get where I wanted to be.

I can't comment on a new motor but you will probably have to "mate" it with the proper ECU. No point in using the existing antique ECU, it's pretty primitive compared to today's systems.

I agree with Gary's suggestion of mating a proper transmission with your new motor. I am not sure if the HF is EXACTLY what you need but I would strongly recommend that you "do your homework" about what the entire drive train requires to be fully functional. The HF had a great reputation for being a thrifty vehicle, I heard rumors of 40 to 50mpg.

In the past I exchanged a 200R4 for a 350THD in a GM product. The result was a bit less than optimal, though the 350THD was far more rugged than the pitiful unit that it replaced. Alas, the mileage went straight to heck because the rotational inertia of the THD350 was probably far higher than that of the 200R4. In addition the THD350 I purchased was rebuilt, probably not competently, and was "set up" more for performance than economy.

Gene

[Danronian]

Originally Posted by atomride

Hello All. I am looking into dropping a D15Z1 in my 1990 CRX. I figure it's best to post things about this here instead of a board where performance (and high emissions) is the aim. I have a local engine place that can supply me a
D15Z1 for $375, just looking now for what else I need. Thanks in advance to everyone who might send a Noob some advice and help! - Mike

Sounds like a good plan!

Should be an easy swap.

Like mentioned, get the HF CRX tranny for the best mpg gearing. You'll also need an ecu conversion harness to run the vtec-e ECU, and will need to alter the connector for the distributor to work w/the obd1 unit. Other than that, it should be fairly straight forward. GL with it!