Go grab a coffee this is longwinded... 
Switch your RPM to LOD and that's basically my set up although I use metric.
Like you, I really like the digital speedo - I use that gauge position for cycling through and checking water temps, etc., but home position is speed. The key thing for me is that at 62 KPH (38 mph) I can shift into 5th - then I make sure that I don't fall below 50 KPH (31 mph) or it'll downshift and I'll have to get back to 62... in a normal urban 50 kph zone, each trip to get into 5th risks a ticket, but mileage in 4th is 20% worse.
The key 3 for me are MPG, GPM and LOD.
GPM reminds me to be in neutral whenever possible, shut off at lights and what the accessory load is (AC deforst) and also just how warm the engine is (is idle burning 1.8 LPH, still a bit cool, or closer to fully warmed 1.3 LPH).
MPG is the key for calculating coasting speed and starting point. My standard coasts are all engine on (slushbox). Since the GPM doesn't change when coasting but the speed is decreasing, eventually you slow down to a speed where you are below target mileage. My target is 23? MPG so I coast so that I'm down to that level at the end of the coast. If my mileage is higher than 23?, then I started my coast too late or too fast and if my mileage is below 23? near the end then I started too soon.
LOD is the fun one. Maybe someone here can run LOD and HP side by side and see if they are proportional? No x-gauge here yet. Anyway, LOD is the engine load. If you were cycling you'd always know what the load is, you'd feel it in your legs and lungs.
For accelerating, I've found that low 50s tends to be a nice rate. It gets me to 62 KPH fairly quickly (I then lift off so 5th engages) so I'm not spending much time in the lower gears. The engine isn't working very hard and making too much extra heat. If I'm in situations where I can't get into 5th then I pulse and glide using a low 50s LOD for the pulses.
Once into 5th, I switch to cruise control and then play with the load using the plus minus buttons. The cruise is really gentle and the buttons allow very small changes. I then try and stay under 50 for acceleration on flats but could use only low 30s if the road were slightly downhill. Acceleration uphill depends on traffic behind me.
At steady state speed it's all about keeping the LOD flattened out. If the road is going to go up, I might increase the LOD a bit before getting to the rise and then I can let off a bit going up to maintain LOD and MPG uphill, or if I can't grab extra speed before I'll drop the LOD as I go up the hill keeping in mind that I want to go no lower than a given speed by the time I crest it. I adjust my target load for the terrain and traffic. Some really big hills and I try and stay under 60, smaller hills 50 and gradual rises 40...
Once cresting a hill, I wait until the LOD is dropping and then when it's back near the lower 30s I'll tap for a bit of speed, wait til the LOD drops a bit again, then tap, etc until I back at speed. If the LOD falls below 30 and I don't want to make up any more speed, then I glide in neutral.
There's a lot of rolling terrain so just like cycling peddling downhill for a bit more speed helps give you some speed to lose going up the other side. Your average speed stays pretty good without the engine having to work very hard. Just like heavy cyclists, rolling terrain affects heavier vehicles far more more than lighter ones.
Your LOD targets may be entirely different. Our Accord has the 2.3L but I haven't driven it much with the ScanGauge hooked up. I think that on something like a Prius you'd drive with much higher LOD readings for the most part.
My advice would be to just observe what your LOD is during your normal driving for a couple of days and then start trying to find an optimal LOD for acceleration and then start anticipating and adjusting speed for terrain to keep the LOD steadier over distances when the terrain goes up and down.
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Linear Mode
