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12-27-2009, 07:20 PM
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#11
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Registered Member
Join Date: Sep 2008
Posts: 113
Country: United States
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i dont have the balls to run any oil 25k...makes me cringe
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12-27-2009, 08:36 PM
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#12
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Site Team / Moderator
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Northern Virginia
Posts: 4,739
Country: United States
Location: Northern Virginia
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Same here. I'm comfortable running synthetic for 5,000 miles. I'm sure I could probably go at least to 10,000 miles, but 5,000 works for me.
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12-28-2009, 09:36 AM
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#13
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Registered Member
Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 6,624
Country: United States
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I run 10,000 miles, per manufacturer's schedule, on my VW, but it's a lease, a 2008 model, and has stringent oil requirements (there is actually a list of approved oils). If I was going outside of those parameters I'd definitely have it analyzed to learn how long it will last in my vehicle with my driving.
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12-30-2009, 05:57 AM
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#14
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Registered Member
Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 189
Country: United States
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Could checking the look of your high mileage motor oil help as well?
On another note, I would caution those who are blocking their grills against going high mileage with their motor oil since they are "cooking their engine blocks".
Does anyone have input about the condition of their motor oil after running an extended period of time with a blocked grill?
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12-30-2009, 06:44 AM
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#15
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Registered Member
Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 6,624
Country: United States
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My GMC calculates when to display the oil change message based on variables including engine temperature. Grille blocking has not affected the oil change interval, though it hasn't affected engine temperature for me either.
Edit: Also, I have an auxilliary oil cooler which is not blocked.
Edit later: Actually, not grille glocking, radiator blocking...100%, though.
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12-30-2009, 06:48 AM
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#16
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Site Team / Moderator
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Northern Virginia
Posts: 4,739
Country: United States
Location: Northern Virginia
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Thee effect of grille blocking on oil life depends on the grille block done, and the vehicle. When I made the grille block for my 98 Sierra K1500 I put a 4" diameter hole right in front of the auxiliary oil and transmission fluid coolers. Plus, I was using a synthetic motor oil and synthetic ATF. Even with a grille block you should never be running your water temp over 205-210 anyway. If your water temp stays above that level for a significant amount of time while driving you need to make the hole in your block a bit bigger.
I guess what I'm saying, is if you've done everything right, a grille block will have little to no effect on oil life.
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12-30-2009, 01:37 PM
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#17
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Registered Member
Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 179
Country: United States
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jay2TheRescue
Thee effect of grille blocking on oil life depends on the grille block done, and the vehicle. When I made the grille block for my 98 Sierra K1500 I put a 4" diameter hole right in front of the auxiliary oil and transmission fluid coolers. Plus, I was using a synthetic motor oil and synthetic ATF. Even with a grille block you should never be running your water temp over 205-210 anyway. If your water temp stays above that level for a significant amount of time while driving you need to make the hole in your block a bit bigger.
I guess what I'm saying, is if you've done everything right, a grille block will have little to no effect on oil life.
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I agree Jay.
But I want to add something: putting a grill block can have a positive result on engine lifetime and oil lifetime! The 2 cars we own drive only very short to short distances. Think everybody knows that running a not fully warmed up engine or engine oil is not healthy for the lifetime. The grill blocks on our cars make it possible to reach at least normal operating temps on a drivecycle. And that's good for oil and engine.
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12-30-2009, 05:44 PM
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#18
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Registered Member
Join Date: Oct 2006
Posts: 557
Country: United States
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60k+ miles and still good
Back a few employers ago I was driving a bit over 50k miles annually for business. I simply didn't have time once a month for an oil change at 5k mile intervals. I did have time to draw and mail off oil samples for analysis on a regular basis, so I bought and installed a toilet paper bypass filter system.
That's not a derogatory term, it actually used a roll of T-P as the element. The kit with fitting and hose assortment was just over $100, the filter elements under $0.50 when bought in bulk. I was able to amortize the system expense in four months, and that's not counting time savings.
I did "waste" money each 10k miles on analysis that showed there was still no reason to change the oil.
It turned out that I was able to stretch my oil change interval to 60k miles ('96 VW diesel, Mobil1 0w-40). The oil was still good, so why stop at 60k? Because that is the timing belt replacement interval and I had to get under the car for that, so why not?
Now I no longer travel for business, nor commute long distance, so no bypass filter is used in either of my present cars. Still, 10k mile factory recommended oil change interval ('05 VW diesel requiring oil apparently distilled from unobtanium to meet VW's 505.01 spec) is an annual event, and the 5k mile interval for the '95 VW diesel which can use the same Mobil1 meeting that generation's 505.00 spec, is only twice/year. With no travel I have the time to do that now.
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12-30-2009, 06:20 PM
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#19
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Registered Member
Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 6,624
Country: United States
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Lug_Nut, what oil were you using with your TP bypass? Also, what kind of TP...I can only imagine TP disintegrating too easily and getting into the oil.
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12-30-2009, 09:09 PM
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#20
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2007
Posts: 736
Country: United States
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The first oil filters were actually TP filters. It was COMMON in the 40s and 50s to use these - my dad remembers that from when he was a kid. Basically an empty housing that used a standard size roll. Quite effective with quality TP, others had "variable mileage."
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