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09-17-2008, 04:44 PM
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#11
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Registered Member
Join Date: Aug 2008
Posts: 23
Country: United States
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Since narrowband sensors are only responsive around normal stoich, there's no real good way to mod a system to still "fully" use a narrowband. The best way would be to go with a wideband that can emulate a narrowband at whatever ratio you want, so you can define a new "stoich". While I probably won't be jumping onto hho myself in the near near future, once I get my car sorted out in terms of just car issues to get it to run fully properly stock, I'm thinking of playing with water injection. While it'd help me with advancing timing, overall, I'd want to be able to go leaner across the board if possible, and the only way I can think of doing this with the ecu functioning in normal open/closed loop modes would be to have a wideband emulate narrowband at a leaner ratio.
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09-17-2008, 07:05 PM
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#12
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Registered Member
Join Date: Sep 2008
Posts: 45
Country: United States
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Sorry guys, been busy last few days and havent had a chance to get on here.
Hydrogen systems arent as simple as ebay or youtube would have someone believe. I have a water cooled intercooler on my test car just to cool the intake air, i also have a temp sensor directly on the head of my car. but as far as changing the timing, it shouldnt be an issue as of yet.
Most generators reach fairly high temps and therefore create more of the excited hydrogen knows as Orthohydrogen, ortho burns hot and fast thats what makes us have to reset the timing and watch engine temp.
I have a secondary generator on my car that produces Parahydrogen. para burns slower and not very hot at all. we can get around temp and timing issues by regulating the mix of these 2 different kinds of hydrogen being put into your engine.. adjusted right it can completely simulate the octane rating of the fuel your car requires.
i have been running my system for roughly a month now, and no i dont have any numbers on the mileage i was actually working on this for the power increase. i have a 280z built for drifting and just thought it would be a cool addition, but i can assure you it has given me more power and smoother acceleration then i ever thought my engine was capable of, i have to look at the gauges just to be sure the thing is running.
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09-17-2008, 07:20 PM
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#13
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Registered Member
Join Date: Sep 2008
Posts: 45
Country: United States
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Forgot to talk about lean out conditions on my last post
the idea of hho is not to lean out fuel entirely, but to lean out gasoline and replace that with hho.
we arent removing fuel, just changing what we are burning.
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08-10-2009, 11:05 PM
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#14
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Registered Member
Join Date: Aug 2009
Posts: 1
Country: United States
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HHO Problems
Only one month into the "testing Phase" of a HHO Gen. and I took a peak on the inside of the housing....
The Plates, threaded rods and nuts looked like they were "Melting" ??? Yeah!! They Are Stanless Steel .. ((all Non-Magnetic all Non-Fe))
What's going On Here??
I am getting a High resistance reading on the Ohm Meter...
I have four photographs of the effect that I am getting from this condition.
I followed the instruction to the letter ... Except for the part about Glueing the Top of the PVC on -- I did seal it with a nice bead of sealent. I did this so I could clean it out better and inspect the plates -- Damn good thing that I did that...
Jim.
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08-13-2009, 01:18 AM
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#15
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Registered Member
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 20
Country: United States
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Hey lurch,
I got interested with HHO first as a skeptic, but them began reading a little more started wonder weather there might be something to it and began researching more about and got to the point where I was ready to try to install a system on my own car. From there after reading more and more and seeing outlandish claims and conflicting information, I began to wonder back to the skeptics side. Anyway here are the practical problems I never was able to get answers for:
I have a subaru wrx with a 2.0L turbo charged motor.
My first problem is this. The most common method of installing HHO is to tap the HHO into the airbox. My concern is with having a turbo charged car, what failsafes can I install to ensure that water will not accidently be pumped into the air intake and in turn into the hot turbo which would be catastrophic for the turbo?
Overcoming this my question deals with the heat generated by the turbo. Turbochargers generate a lot of heat. If I pump the HHO pre-turbo could the heat generated ignite the hydrogen in the turbo before it even reaches the intake manifold and the engine?
If the answer to the above question is to pump the hydrogen post-turbo than how do I over come the pressure generated by the turbo to inject the HHO? My boost peaks at 17.3 psi is I try to inject the hydrogen into the intercooler or the intake manifold how do I stop the manifold pressure simple pushing the hydrogen back to the generator?
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08-13-2009, 06:42 AM
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#16
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Registered Member
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 1,652
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I would recommending cutting the the HHO on and off with the evap canister solenoid signal and routing it with inline checkvalves through the evap system... This is because, this will already be set up to avoid reverse flow under boost, it will only work in vacuum. Secondly, the ECU "knows" when it is doing an evap purge, and is prepared to let the injectors go much leaner at this time. As such the ECU kind of has control over the HHO system and will not try tuning around it, or tuning it out.
However, then you have to figure under what conditions the ECU frequently triggers evap purge and try only to drive in those conditions (Typically it's at high vacuum cruise, which is real convenient)
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I remember The RoadWarrior..To understand who he was, you have to go back to another time..the world was powered by the black fuel & the desert sprouted great cities..Gone now, swept away..two mighty warrior tribes went to war & touched off a blaze which engulfed them all. Without fuel, they were nothing..thundering machines sputtered & stopped..Only those mobile enough to scavenge, brutal enough to pillage would survive. The gangs took over the highways, ready to wage war for a tank of juice
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10-31-2009, 08:08 PM
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#17
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Registered Member
Join Date: Jul 2009
Posts: 5
Country: United States
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Need your help please
I have just fitted a 13 plate dry cell to a Saab 93 2.2 turbo diesel. Been using it for over 2 weeks and see no gain but actually loss 3-4 mpg. I connected the output hose to the air intake hose 4 inches from going to the turbo. Should i relocate the hose near to the airbox before or after the MAF sensor ?
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11-16-2009, 09:49 AM
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#18
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Registered Member
Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 2
Country: United States
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I am very close to installing my HHO system on my 2006 4.7 V8 Dodge Dakota, , I am now at the sensor enhancement phase. I need a MAP and Dual EFIE enhancer. I would like some feedback on which digital MAP/EFIE enhancer I should go with while trying to avoid paying an overly ridiculous price. Is "soft start" the way to go, and what about a digital voltage meter?
Any Ideas?
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01-03-2010, 04:02 PM
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#19
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Registered Member
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 5
Country: United States
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What material is everyone using to "sandwich" the plates and what thickness?
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01-04-2010, 07:03 AM
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#20
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Registered Member
Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 189
Country: United States
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sedberry09
I am very close to installing my HHO system on my 2006 4.7 V8 Dodge Dakota, , I am now at the sensor enhancement phase. I need a MAP and Dual EFIE enhancer. I would like some feedback on which digital MAP/EFIE enhancer I should go with while trying to avoid paying an overly ridiculous price. Is "soft start" the way to go, and what about a digital voltage meter?
Any Ideas?
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Have you looked at the power consumption (battery vs. alternator output) from these systems yet?
On the 4.7L Dodge Dakota, I found a more viable option was simply removing the clutch fan to get more MPG.
I also ran without an alternator and had a range of 50 miles on the stock battery.
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