Uh, DAX!!!

[Matt Timion]

Originally Posted by DaX

I just called the owner. Here's the story: He owns a tow truck business and just picked the car up from a customer to take to have scrapped. The customer told him it was a 1971 Honda Accord (haha). When he picked it up, he realized it wasn't an accord and could probably get more money by selling it than scrapping it. The customer's wife was making him get rid of it, but he said it ran fine in 1991. The seller doesn't know much about them, but he's been honest and said there is not much rust but some in the floorboards and under the car. If my camera is in my car, I will take some pictures today.

Awesome.

There are guys selling doors on ebay every so often too if you end up wanting to just replace that rusted door with a new one.

Floorboards might be an issue. I'm fortunate to have a n600 with no rust on the floorboards. That itself is ultra rare.

I'm looking forward to the pictures.

Oh, I'm slowly putting together a list of parts that Honda still stocks. I'll let you know what they are. I wish I could just get a list from Honda, but I can't.

[GasSavers_DaX]

Originally Posted by Matt Timion

Awesome.

There are guys selling doors on ebay every so often too if you end up wanting to just replace that rusted door with a new one.

Floorboards might be an issue. I'm fortunate to have a n600 with no rust on the floorboards. That itself is ultra rare.

I'm looking forward to the pictures.

Oh, I'm slowly putting together a list of parts that Honda still stocks. I'll let you know what they are. I wish I could just get a list from Honda, but I can't.

Ok, so I didn't have my camera with me so there are no pictures.

Here are my concerns (Matt, please tell me if they are justified):

1) RUST. Wow, there is some pretty severe rust in a few places, and rust damage repair is something I am NOT familiar with. Open the back hatch/trunk and the floor of that is rusted pretty bad. There are holes all the way through and you can crumble away some of the areas making the holes bigger. Another very rusty spot is on the floorboard, driver side, directly below where the door hinges. I can see the ground through here. The final place with rust that scared me is under the hood up at the firewall...it's pretty bad and it's kind of tucked away back in there. You can see some of it behind the brake booster in the picture above. There is also rust in the battery tray area, but I figure I can make a new battery tray.

2) WHEELS. It'll definately need 3, and possibly 4 wheels.

3) Rear Hatch. Is it made of plastic? I don't think the rear bumper is crooked like you thought from that picture, but the plastic hinges are broken on the hatch and it's hanging down in that picture. It was actually sitting in the back seat today.

Those are the things I'm most concerned with. Below are just some other things I noticed:

*The seats are actually worse than they look in the picture. The cushions are ripped open on all of them. The carpet is almost nonexistent. So much for an interior.

*On the passenger side in the eingine bay, what do those pulleys go to? An alternator? If so, it's not there.

*All the glass is in tact.

*There are some pretty good dents, but nothing I couldn't handle. It'll probably end up needing a new driver side door, but you said those show up on ebay.

*The weatherstripping looks horrible everywhere.

*We already stated the obvious need of a steering wheel.

*I had no clue what to look for in the engine bay, but everything (except maybe the alternator) seemed to be there. There is a blower or a fan or something in the front driver's corner of the engine bay that was loose...not bolted down.

************************************************

So Matt. I want an honest assesment of this car. Am I living a pipe dream trying to hold out for one with less rust, or is it feasible to find one that isn't going to cost a TON? How much did you pay for yours, and wasn't it running when you bought it?

If I buy it, I'm going to want to drive it. I'd rather not buy one as a parts car first, then start looking for a driver, I'd rather have one that drives and then find a parts car.

I guess what I'm saying is that if you think there is a glimmer of hope of having this thing on the road, tell me what you think should be my max price for it, and about how much I'm looking at getting into it before she's road worthy.

Sorry to ask so much of you, but it just broke my heart to see all the rust...I feel like I can deal with everything else but that!!!

[budomove]

The firewall looks badly rusted.

[Matt Timion]

Honestly, rust is a pita. My n600 has so little rust, so I lucked out.

here is what you will spend to fix that rust: A lot.

Surface rust I can deal with, but not the rust that goes all of the way through. That stuff just freaks me out. That requires welding and fabrication, two things I'm not familiar with (at least not yet).

Now to answer your questions, b/c you'll need to know the answers eventually anyway.

The rear hatch is made of plastic. Kinda weird, huH?

Upholstery sets can be had for $250ish + s/h from San Diego, CA.

Carpet can be had for $200 plus s/h from North Carolina. Some would recommend to just go to an upholstery shop and have them redo the carpet. As much as I like my new carpet, I think it might be better to have a pro redo it for a little more.

Those pulleys actually move the the main cooling fan that goes directly behind the engine. I have a picture of one somewhere, but Ican't find it.

FYI, here is my engine bay:



The blower motor actually is used to heat the cabin (the one on the drivers side).

Weather stripping is going to be EXPENSIVE to get. Mike O'Connor in NC has reproductions made, but I think it's like $125 for the front window and the same for the rear... not totally sure.

Considering the amount of work/money this is going to take to get running, and especially considering the rust, my personal advice is to let it pass. If you want to proactively search for a cleaner one, let me know and I'll assist you. Depending on how much you want to pay and how far you can travel (or pay for shipping) we can find rust free ones, or almost-rust free n600s all over.

I don't know if you remember, but I originally won a n600 on ebay in Chicago. It hadn't run in over 10 years, and after I won and paid the deposit ($200) I had a friend in Wisconsin go and check it out. It was SO badly rusted that I decided to pass on it. I lost $200 on that car, and it was a wise move. COnsidering it would have cost me $700 for the car and another $800 to ship it here, PLUS I'd have to get a new windshield on it (another $100 for the part and then the price to ship it, have it replaced, etc.) I decided to look for one that was in better shape.

My car cost me $1400, and I had to pay $200 in gas and a $50 uhaul rental to go get it. It ran right away, although it needed some work (tune up, tires, etc.).

Anyway, we can chat more about this on AIM as to not burden everyone else with the details. I know that as soon as owning a n600 became a reality for me I was no longer passive about it. I WANTED one. There are some great deals to be had. If you want a z600 I'll have one for sale in 8 months or so

[budomove]

engine bay is purty.

[GasSavers_DaX]

Well, I put in a bid on it. We'll se how I do!

[GasSavers_DaX]

...aaaaand I'm already outbid. Oh well, there is a cleaner car out there for me somewhere.

[Matt Timion]

Originally Posted by DaX

Well, I put in a bid on it. We'll se how I do!

Outbid!

WE'll see if I can find something else for you.

There is a RHD s600 in washington



Do you have $10k to spare?

[Matt Timion]

Originally Posted by DaX

...aaaaand I'm already outbid. Oh well, there is a cleaner car out there for me somewhere.

Or you can buy that car for the glass and this car for the body & engine:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1972-...16710968QQrdZ1

[Gary Palmer]

Dax: IMO If that puppy's got that much rust on it, you'd be much better off waiting for something in better condition.