Looking at a used truck tonight

[theholycow]

Originally Posted by VetteOwner

oh have a fire extingusiher nearby as you are near the gastank and charcoal canister that collects gas fumes (id be more worried about that thing haha)

Is there any better protection than waiting for fumes to explode and using a fire extinguisher?

[IndyFetch]

Originally Posted by theholycow

Is there any better protection than waiting for fumes to explode and using a fire extinguisher?

drop the tank. I would already have to have the fuel pipe disconnectedi in order to remove the bed.

[trollbait]

When welding on the tank, I've heard of people dumping dry ice into it to flush out the air. Don't know if it would get into the canister. Guess it depends on how everything is plumbed.

[VetteOwner]

id just remove the bed...yea the filler neck comes off the bed with like 3 screws, VS tryign to remove the rusty fuel lines, tank brackets, worryign about damaging the pump, etc

just gotta remove the filler neck screws, unplug the taillight harness and remove bed. (may have to do something about the charcoal canister depending on how its attached on that truck.)

[theholycow]

LOL I think you lost track of what this discussion is about...we're talking about removing the fuel tank for safety while welding the frame near it.

I have (and certainly would again) removed the bed to replace the fuel pump. Actually, without helpers, I didn't fully remove it, but I lifted it, put blocks under it, and shifted it until I had the access I needed. It was worth it.

[theholycow]

Fetch, if your frame is that bad, you should check your brakes. I'm doing my rear disc brakes and it's blown up into a huge project. Everything is rotted. I may have to take my axle apart to replace the backing plates (or at least take the hubs off to put in more expensive 2-piece backing plates).

https://picasaweb.google.com/fistula.../GMCRearBrakes

[IndyFetch]

The rear brakes were completed right before I got the truck. The drums look new, and I know the wheel cylinders are new. The brake pedal was spongey, so I bled the rears. I couldn't bleed the fronts due to the fact that the bleeder screws were completely rounded off. I discovered I could buy calipers for only $6 more than the screws after the core charge is factored in, so I replaced the front calipers and pads, then bled the fronts. I bled ALL the old fluid through the system, so it has all new fluid throughout. I then replaced the rotors and wheel bearing seals, and repacked the wheel bearings.

The brakes are plenty good now. Surprisingly, nothing on the brake system was rusted. It may have been replaced at some point.

Edit: Except for the emergency brake cable. I do need to get the emergency brake working at some point. The adjuster is pretty rusty, although the bolt is still in decent shape.

[VetteOwner]

if its anything like my s10's ebrake adjuster forget about adjusting it haha, sprayed for a week with PB blaster and liquid wrench with no go. tried heat after that with no go...

[theholycow]

Crap, I forgot to see if there are usable parts on what remains of the S10 in my yard. Anyway I did get the job done, it was tedious and difficult but I adjusted them in...hopefully they'll adjust out more easily when I put it all back together.

[Jay2TheRescue]

Dad always took the adjuster completely apart and lubed it with white lithium grease before putting it back together & back in the car. Never had one get stuck on us. I eventually replaced the two on my Buick simply because the teeth on the adjuster had worn down.