Does my riding mower need a differential?

[GasSavers_maximilian]

The glade next to my house isn't what you'd call flat, so I frequently find one of my lawn mower's rear wheels spinning and need to either bear down on that corner, rock back and forth a bit, or just get off and push. Since it's operated strictly at low speed (it can go pretty fast but I never do so even when not cutting) I was wondering if I even need a differential. Any problems with disabling it? Thanks.

[theholycow]

Any idea how to do it without welding? I have exactly the same problem.

[GasSavers_maximilian]

I more meant can anyone see a reason to keep it?

I think I'd just weld the sucker solid since I have one. Saw it on a Junkyard Wars once. Need to review differentials before actually doing it, of course. I've already disabled the engine cutoff that prevented backing up with the blade engaged. That was just annoying. Kept the seat cutoff though.

Maybe you could drill a hole and insert a bolt? If I kill mine I'll try and think of something while I'm in there.

[theholycow]

Backing with the blades engaged is part of my strategy for dealing with the hilly terrain.

[GasSavers_maximilian]

For the steep hill I have I get off the mower and walk next to it, holding the seat down with one hand to keep it going. This keeps the COM low enough that it doesn't threaten to tip at all. It's so much wider than my push mower (not to mention self propelled) that it's a lot quicker.

My push mower's primer bulb isn't squirting any fuel (just air), and I tried cleaning the various orifices involved but no dice. At least the carb's getting fuel. Maybe I need some cleaner for it. It belonged to the guy my ex ran off with. Freebie!

[GasSavers_Erik]

I owned a CJ7 jeep with a rear diff that was welded together by the previous owner. It was very hard to make sharp turns (one wheel has to slip) and I could tell that the engine was working harder during that process.

Some ATV's have solid rear axles.

The diff helps you turn sharper. I think sharp turns are necessary in my lawn, so I wouldn't do it to my riding mower.

You would need to pull the rear axle apart and weld the spider gears together.

http://www.rockmodified.com/Tech/traction/traction.htm



How about installing some knobby ATV tires on the rear for better traction?

Or you could set the mower to cut higher. Although it is counter intuitive, the higher you mow, the less frequently you have to mow. I used to be a scalper, but now I am up to a 2 inch setting and love it.

[theholycow]

Originally Posted by Erik

The diff helps you turn sharper. I think sharp turns are necessary in my lawn, so I wouldn't do it to my riding mower.

On a lawn, it can slip easily (but may cause minor damage, not a concern on my "lawn").

Or you could set the mower to cut higher. Although it is counter intuitive, the higher you mow, the less frequently you have to mow. I used to be a scalper, but now I am up to a 2 inch setting and love it.

That is counterintuitive. I've usually mowed with the deck raised in the uppermost non-mowing position, and just recently decided to try mowing lower. I tend to go a long time between mowing...kinda rednecky, I know...

[GasSavers_maximilian]

Thanks for the link. The tire's off the ground, not slipping generally. I mow at 3". Isn't that what's recommended for lawn health (or something)?

That looks hard to do without a welder...

[GasSavers_maximilian]

3" is on the tall side, apparently (depending on what type of grass you have - damned if I know). Cool. 2" it is! I only really mow to keep the glade from becoming overgrown. I see deer there a lot in the morning and the occasional moose.

[GasSavers_maximilian]

Theholycow, if you have to remove the axle anyway a place could weld it for you cheaply enough. You go first.