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Originally Posted by lemmiwinks
A DMM is good for showing you the OCV of the batteries, and if you can juggle it, the voltage under load, but a hydrometer will give you a better indication of the actual condition of a flooded battery.
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Good tip, thanks. The book I've been reading "Build Your Own EV" (appropriate to crack it open, now that we're half finished, eh?) sort of pooh-poohs hydrometer use in favour of a DMM, which I took at face value. But I realize in retrospect, they're expecting you to be using a nice set of shiny new batteries.
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A brief note about electric motors (I apologise in advance if you already know this),
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No apology needed. Good refresher.
Got one! eBay, NOS. 50 mv shunt with a 600A scale gauge.
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You could use a friend holding a DMM plus the ammeter readings to get an idea of voltage sag under load, and also how much current your batteries can actually deliver to the controller.
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Yes - as much as it's useful (and fun!) to drive the car around and do DMM readings immediately afterwards, a proper load test is the way to go.
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(getting a modified car registered here is nothing that bulk $$ can't fix  )
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Yes, I've read that about both Australia and NZ. What's up with you folks down there? And all the trouble that the little REVA EV stirred up? Wow.
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I especially loved the EV1 rip off at the end, classic
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Cool - you're the first one who recognized it!
(Or at least said so.)
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Got to counter the myth / perception (that I'm contributing to) that EV's are slow and boring!
Linear Mode
