Which Oil to Use?

[DRW]

Here's a good article that explains which oil weight to use and what the various oil weight numbers mean. It was written by a knowledgeable enthusiast. It doesn't go into much detail about which brands to use since apparently there's more of a difference between oil weights, synthetic vs. mineral oil, and new ratings vs. old. It's long and full of good info.
http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/faq...tor_oil_basics
There's a couple of nice tables at the bottom of the article, so if you're in a hurry scroll down.

[Mayhim]

I've read Dr Haas' work over at the BITOG forums. I have found his information understandable and helpful.

I was once a member of the ThickerIsBetter crowd, then was a member of the ThinnerIsBetter crowd. Now I kind of split the difference on the thin side and belong to the CheapSkate crew.

BITOG sure taught me a lot about oils. I'll never be the same...

[bowtieguy]

it seems, scanning thru very briefly, that Dr. Haas supports the opinion that synthetics are better.

if he were a mechanic, as well as a "chemical expert", perhaps his study/ideas would be more respected.

i kinda go by experience in this and other matters. and my observation is that synthetics are clearly superior.

those things said, i've heard more than a few mechanics/chemical experts/researchers recommend synthetics.

sort of a triple crown IMHO: my experience, an expert opinion(both hands on and chemical analysis), and research to back it up.

[DRW]

BITOG= Bob Is The Oil Guy
bobistheoilguy.com

[Hateful]

That was way too much reading just to find out I was using the right oil; that's no help.

[GasSavers_RoadWarrior]

Best bang for buck IMO = Supertech/Tech2000 Walmart brand 0W30 synthetic, for tight engines, extended change interval possible. For leaky/smoky engines try Pennzoil or Castrol High Mileage 5W30, for motors known for sludging, or suspected to be very dirty, valvoline maxlife, for a fill or two then switch to synth if tight or the other two if leaky/smoky.

[suspendedhatch]

Find the article that goes on about the additives in the oil. Mobil 1 fully synthetic came out right near the top. Amsoil was number one.

Never use synthetic blend. When you heat it up, the synthetic oil floats on top of the organic. Unfortunately the oil pickup is at the bottom of the pan, so only the organic gets circulated. It's a waste of money.

Organic molecules vary in size. With synthetic they're all one uniform size.

Other than that, oil is oil. It all comes down to the additives each individual company puts in it. Same goes for gasoline. Except with gas you have the cheap stations that mix whatever surplus gas the other companies give them.

[JanGeo]

About 2 years ago I did my first oil change in my new xB after 3700 miles of break in. Drained the old oil out over night changed the filter and then poured 4 quarts of Synlube 5W50 and only added about 2 cups after 10,000 miles to bring it up to the full mark where is still is today at 20,568 miles. I know you guys are into changing oil all the time and not too many of you think this stuff can keep working but so far it is running great and giving great mileage - current tank average 43.6 mpg.

[theholycow]

I agree, with synthetic oil and modern engines designed to go a long way on synthetic oil, it's silly to change oil every 3,000. VW says my first oil change should be at 5,000 miles, then 10,000, then every 10,000 after that...and that's exactly what I'll do.

[JanGeo]

That sounds ok - my 80 Rabbit would go 7-8k miles between oil changes and the oil would get pretty beat by then - castrol was used all the time and it lasted 163k miles before the car rusted away - engine was still running great!

Of course with the Synlube you FORGETABOUTOILCHANGES - and it is the weirdest thing to NOT be changing the oil all the time.