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01-14-2010, 09:10 AM
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#1
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Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 214
Country: United States
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T-100 belly pan and side skirts...
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01-14-2010, 10:15 AM
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#2
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Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 6,624
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Looks good.
Coroplast takes spraypaint well, in case you can't find black coroplast.
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01-14-2010, 10:55 AM
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#3
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Join Date: Apr 2007
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I might drop the clearance on the side skirts once I git the coroplast on there. It's more resilient than the R-Matte foam board. At least if I hit it on something or scrape it on a speed bump...it won't tear away like the R-Matte.
I should be able to git black coroplast...that's what I have on the front side and the air dam lower pan. On my first try with white coroplast and black spray paint...it had a tendency to chip with the road debris/bugs...so now I just try to git it in the color I need it in.
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01-14-2010, 11:00 AM
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#4
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Yeah, for front-facing coroplast I didn't just plain spraypaint it. I put on adhesion promoter, then a few layers of black spray-on Plasti-Dip. I had it all around the house anyway and wasn't using it.
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01-14-2010, 05:11 PM
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#5
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I dunno...plywood right next to a hot exhaust pipe and catalytic converter kinda scares me...
...I've kinda had visions lately of taking some tin-snips to the junkyard, cutting off tops of junked cars for sheet metal, and fabricating a belly-pan from that...trying to figure out where I'd find the time for that, though...
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01-14-2010, 05:30 PM
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#6
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Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 6,624
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That idea sounds like it would be really heavy and you'd have bulging odd-shaped pieces. If you were going to that effort, why not find skid plates instead? They're already the right shape and size.
Otherwise, thin sheet metal used for home construction might be decent, or it might be too thin.
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01-14-2010, 08:13 PM
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#7
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Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 698
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Most car sheet metal seems to be pretty light...if you've ever gotten a replacement fender from a junkyard you know what I mean. Also, tops are pretty flat, and should be pretty easy to shape. Also, I expect they'd be pretty cheap.
__________________
"We are forces of chaos and anarchy. Everything they say we are we are, and we are very proud of ourselves!" -- Jefferson Airplane
Dick Naugle says: 1. Prepare food fresh. 2. Serve customers fast. 3. Keep place clean.
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01-14-2010, 08:16 PM
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#8
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Registered Member
Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 214
Country: United States
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I've had the belly pan on fer over 3 weeks now...no scorch marks at all. Been checking it fer any possible damage. I'm still gonna put an aluminum heat shield when I git the chance. Thanks fer the concern!
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01-21-2010, 05:58 PM
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#9
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Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 214
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The trip went without a hitch and nothing fell off or got broken. Gas mileage seemed to be better at the higher cruising speed...especially with the winter gas mix and the lower temps.
Now I'm thinking about using some stretch fabric (lycra/spandex/neoprene) fer the rear section under the rear axle. Put in a support between the rear springs so there is enough support fer the solid piece that would cover up the spare tire. The stretch fabric would allow fer movement fer the suspension/rear axle without ripping the fasteners out. I did a preliminary fit with some leftover R-Matte and it seems like it would be a decent departure angle. I'll have to measure it fer sure and see how much adjustment I'll have to do in the draft fabrication.
BTW...what's the optimal angle of departure fer the rear of the belly pan?
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02-04-2010, 01:21 AM
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#10
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Registered Member
Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 214
Country: United States
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Finally installed the engine bay belly pan today. Just a simple 15" x 41" panel made from some leftover R-Matte. It's currently attached with some zip ties, scrap coroplast, and a bracket. If it passes, then I'll end up making a single panel that will incorporate the air dam and engine bay panels. Putting it on and taking it off will only entail 4 bolts.
I did notice it got quieter inside the truck...
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