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Old 07-19-2007, 07:04 AM   #11
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I drove around dirt roads a little yesterday, and the only time it hit was when I tried to hit the wheel into a pot hole. Even that just slightly bent the metal back and I could bend it back in a second. I think I'll keep this height until I find that it's a problem. I don't want to cut off more than I need to. I ordered the SGII, so I'll have to try A-B-A tests and see if/what the difference is.
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Old 07-23-2007, 04:55 PM   #12
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Update: I was hitting the ground a few times, so I removed an inch from the bottom and it's doing much better now. I also bolted on a wood board cut into 3 sections (wide in the middle, shorter ones to the sides) so that it holds shape better and if it does hit the ground now, instead of a smaller area getting all the force it is spread over a few feet and requires less maintinence.
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Old 07-24-2007, 06:09 AM   #13
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Pic of the board/boards?

And can I suggest, once you find the ideal height for the air dam, you can add a belly pan going from lower edge of air dam to as far back under the engine/front suspension as you can make it reach.

I'll suggest 2.x mm. thick lauan plywood. In my area its about $7 for a 4x8 foot sheet. I used 5.x mm. thick for my belly pan, cost is about double that of the thinner stuff which I haven't tried yet.
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Currently getting +/- 50 mpg in fall weather. EPA is 31/39 so not too shabby. WAI, fuel cutoff switch, full belly pan, smooth wheel covers.

Now driving '97 Civic HX; tires ~ 50 psi. '89 Volvo 240 = semi-retired.
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Old 07-24-2007, 06:36 AM   #14
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Or Coroplast, which is naturally waterproof and such...
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