Clear Duct Tape and Coroplast

[brucepick]

This past weekend I used a sheet of coroplast and some clear duct tape (by 3M, found at WalMart) to build a new, temporary air dam and forward belly pan.

The clear duct tape was not up to the job. I drive about 60 mi. to work each way daily and each run has required repairs to duct tape that has come loose. I originally did the replacements using clear duct tape but now I'm using the regular gray type in hopes that it will hold up better.

So please beware. The clear version might be up to light duty for single-layer projects without a lot of weight - but do check on it periodically. This project has two layers of coroplast over much of the area so it weighs more than most coroplast aero projects.

I built this one because my existing air dam was removed by me and a friend this past weekend so he can clone it in fiberglass. I built that one using plywood, sheet plastic, brackets made from aluminum angle stock, and small stainless screws/nuts/washers. The fiberglass project could take a couple weeks and I didn't want to be without the air dam + forward belly pan that long.

[SL8Brick]

Originally Posted by brucepick

I built this one because my existing air dam was removed by me and a friend this past weekend so he can clone it in fiberglass.

Any chance of him cloning more than one? (hint, hint)

[brucepick]

I'll ask him about making more clones.

I think you saw the pics of that air dam + forward belly pan in earlier threads here?

[SL8Brick]

Yes, I'm familiar with your design. What kind of clearance does it have from the road surface? Do you ever scrape it while going over speed bumps, crowned roads, ect.?

[brucepick]

It's about 7" from the road. It clears all the parking lot bumpers I've come across so far. Speed bumps, no problem, the one's I've seen aren't anywhere near 7". I actually measured one and it was about 3" but I'm sure some are higher. No problem on crowned roads but I'm not sure if that's the same everwhere. I wouldn't think a road would crown 7" between the front wheels?

I did scrape it a couple times, turning quickly into pretty steep driveways . It was the steep grades of the driveways that caused the problem - so I think I've learned that lesson now. For a steep driveway I do need to take it slower with the air dam.

I've been taking level corners and curves as hard as I dare (have ipd sway bars) with no scrapes.

[SL8Brick]

Gotcha! Being that its fiberglass, that would be my primary concern.

Well, if your friend is up to making an extra one and the price is right....I'd definately be interested. How do you plan on mounting it once its finished?

[brucepick]

Oops. Sorry, I never answered your question above.

Mounting is via the same method as the oem air dam as the fiberglass one replaces the oem air dam and incorporates my addition. That is, oem air dam + added air dam = one piece fiberglass. Likely weighs less than or similar to the oem air dam. Belly pan is a second piece, attaches to the fiberglass air dam and also the the oem splash pan at its rear edge.

The oem air dam rests on a lip at the lower edge of the bumper. Replacement attaches the same. To remove it, first remove the two small screws at the two ends of the air dam. Then remove four screws going up into underside of bumper; this releases the air dam where it rests on the lip. Air dam now will slide rearward about an inch and then will drop down.

His plan is to build it in two pieces, the air dam part plus a second piece for the undertray / belly pan. Molding it in one piece would be difficult/impossible. The belly pan will attach to the lower edge of the air dam. My one-off used aluminum angle brackets; I'm pretty sure the fiberglass one will have at least part of the mounting hardware embedded in the fiberglass. Belly pan's rear edge attaches to oem splash pan with two or three bolts; requires drilling holes in the plastic oem splash pan.


He plans on embedding some steel or aluminum into the fiberglass for strength at the various mounting points.