Wanted: crank pulley tool so I can change the timing belt on my Civic VX

[monroe74]

I've been quiet for a while, but I'm finally speaking up because I need some help!

It's time to do the timing belt on my '95 VX. The challenging part of this job is removing the crank pulley. The best way to do this is with the right tool. For newer Hondas, the tool looks like this:

http://www.amazon.com/Powerbuilt-648...pr_product_top

But for the VX, the tool looks like this:

http://www.amazon.com/Alltrade-64882...8797744&sr=1-1
http://www.alltradetools.com/catalog...ding-tool.html

The newer tool is easy to find, but the tool I need is hard to find. I could buy this thing:

http://www.handsontools.com/SIR-Tool...c_p_18885.html

But it would be nice to not spend that much (about $75, shipped) for a tool I'll only be using once every 90,000 miles.

So maybe someone has the right tool, and they're willing to sell it, or loan it, or rent it?

I realize there are a bunch of other methods for doing this (e.g., jam a screwdriver in the flywheel), but they all seem to have various disadvantages. I think the best approach is to use the right tool, so I hope I can find one.

Thanks!

[benfrogg]

I must say, the best approach is the right tool; however....
A length of black iron pipe 1" or bigger and two bolts/washers/nuts is all you need to get the job done.
Cut the black iron to 3' or so (2' would be okay too). Measure the distance between two of the holes in the harmonic balancer. I used two holes that were the furthest apart without impeding getting a socket on the end of the bolt head.
If you can weld, use that. If you don't have access to that, simple drill the pipe in two places close to the end to fit two 2 and 1/2" bolts. Use washers and nuts to stabilize them in the pipe.

Insert the "tool" into the holes in the harmonic balancer. Position the tool so it contacts the floor or something else solid. Use a breaker bar (actually do-able in the VX, believe it or not) or an impact wrench. It's a keyed shaft, so from there the balancer just pulls straight off with little effort.

Just my two cents. I have this tool that I have used 3 or 4 times now on the VX. Works great.
B

[monroe74]

Hi Ben,

Thanks for explaining that. I find that encouraging. What you described is similar to what I've seen in these places:

http://sites.google.com/site/hondali...eyholdingtools
http://sites.google.com/site/hondali...madepulleytool
http://www.cadvision.com/blanchas/54pontiac/honda.html

I was a little concerned about doing it that way, because I've also seen some stories about people trying methods like that and ending up damaging the crank pulley. One story like that is here:

http://www.honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=2682812

But since you did this successfully several times, that helps to convince me that this method can really work. I have a feeling that it's important to attach the bolts securely, so they stay perfectly parallel even when a lot of force is applied.

Anyway, I think I'll wait a while and see if anyone here chimes in to say that they have the tool I'm trying to find. If not, then I should probably build something like what you describe.

Some people also talk about using a chain wrench, with a piece of old v-belt wrapped around the pulley to protect it. I'm curious if you considered this, or if you have any thoughts about how this would compare with what you did.

Thanks!

[theholycow]

Have you checked with all the parts stores in your area to see if they have a loaner?

[Jay2TheRescue]

Yeah, all parts stores in my area will loan you the tool for free if you buy the parts from them. (how this usually works is they charge you retail for the tool, and allow you to return it for a full refund when the job is done)

[benfrogg]

I had considered the chain wrench deal with v-belt. There are three reasons I didn't go this route:
1) I didn't own the tool
2) It really requires to people to complete the job because of the nature of friction fitting the chain around the balancer
3) I felt it was a less "solid" connection

The only reason I went with the route of the homemade tool is that honda had holes in the balancer for removing. By the way, make sure you use high grade bolts as they described, a detail I missed. Try to use bolts that are very close to the diameter of the holes in the balancer. That makes the likelyhood they'll slip out very slim.
If the balancer did not have holes in it, I would have done the old airplane engine trick-
Bring the motor to TDC. Spin the harmonic balancer 1/8-1/4 revolution opposite the direction of the bolt you want to remove. Pull number one spark plug. Feed a small-medium diameter soft rope into the cylinder opening. Make sure you have enough length to fill the cylinder and have a length of rope left out so you can pull the whole thing out later. You'll know that it's full when the rope won't feed in anymore. Turn the balancer back towards TDC. It should stop before that because the rope prevents it from moving up any farther.
Voila, crank the pulley bolt with your breaker bar and you've got it!

This has worked for me in two vehicles so far. One was a ford ranger, the other a Volvo wagon. Flawless. There is some thought that you put a lot of force on piston rods/bearings, but (I'm going from memory here, please correct me if I'm wrong) the valves would both be closed at this point in the stroke so there is no danger to them.

You might be able to get the tool as a loaner. Autozone is well known for this service.
B

[GasSavers_Erik]

I have used the chain wrench method on my 94 accord and it worked OK. I prefer to just use an impact wrench by itself, but my impact couldn't do loosen that one so I had to use the chain wrench and stand on a 3 foot breaker bar to do it.

I put another long pipe on the chain wrench handle and braced it against the ground.

[hondaguy72]

Mine is better. I hand made it to do the vx belt on my project car.



With a vise grip on the front lca it is locked in. I would be afraid to use the tool shown since it only engages one crank pulley hole. I had to use my foot on the breaker bar to crack the bolt loose. I would guess at least 400lb/ft was used to crack that sucker loose.

Once flush with the pulley there is no play. If you want to pay for the shipping, I'll send it to you.

[benfrogg]

Oh my! I like hondaguy's solution the best! Then clamping it to the lower control arm, awesome. Great work!
B

[monroe74]

hondaguy:

If you want to pay for the shipping, I'll send it to you.

I agree with what Ben said; you're offering a great solution. So in a few minutes I'm going to PM you with some details about shipping it.

With a vise grip on the front lca it is locked in.

Makes sense.

Once flush with the pulley there is no play.

Maybe I would also use a vise grip to hold the tool on the pulley and make sure the tool is flush against the pulley.

I would be afraid to use the tool shown since it only engages one crank pulley hole.

Yes, good point. But I think the concept with that tool is the way there is a center hole that rides against the socket you're using. This forces the pin to rotate in a circle, and I think this protects the pulley. The pin is guided to exert force only in one specific direction. But your tool is even better. By engaging four seperate holes you're spreading the force in a nice gentle way.

I would guess at least 400lb/ft was used to crack that sucker loose.

That sounds about right. Take a look at this Honda Service Bulletin ("Remove Stubborn Crank
Pulley Bolts"):

http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/cranktool/A930200.pdf

It says this: "a properly torqued pulley bolt may require up to two or three times the installation torque to remove!"

The book indicates 134 lb-ft for this bolt. Triple would be 402, exactly what you said!

By the way, another interesting Honda Service Bulletin is here:

http://www.driveaccord.net/forums/at...2&d=1101087728

It shows the tools that a Honda dealer uses to do the job.

Also, here's something interesting:

http://www.hondatuningmagazine.com/t...ool/index.html

That article explains that when using the Honda tool, it "fastens to most frames via a preexisting 8mm threaded hole." A nice little trick, if that's the tool that's being used.