Wanted: crank pulley tool so I can change the timing belt on my Civic VX

[monroe74]

theholycow:

Have you checked with all the parts stores in your area to see if they have a loaner?

Well, not every single one, but I checked with a bunch. I called NAPA, AutoZone and Advanced Auto Parts. Those three big chains all have stores nearby. I also called 2-3 local, independent shops. Most people I talked to had no idea what I was talking about. A couple of people could get me the newer tool (with the hex fitting). One person could get me the right tool, but not as a loaner. They wanted $174. I have a hunch they were talking about this thing:

http://www.automotivetoolsonline.com...s_p_14600.html

Which I could get for $131 (plus shipping) without their help. No one knew how to get the simple Alltrade tool, which should probably cost about $20-30.

[monroe74]

jay:

all parts stores in my area will loan you the tool for free if you buy the parts from them

Are you sure? It sure seems different around here. I wonder if you could name a store? Then I could call them and maybe convince them to sell it to me by mail. I guess I don't need it if I can get the tool from hondaguy, but I'm still curious.

[monroe74]

ben:

You might be able to get the tool as a loaner. Autozone is well known for this service.

I was optimistic about that, but when I called them they hardly knew what I was talking about. They didn't have the tool I needed. I suppose if I called a bunch of different locations maybe I would get lucky and find one that had it.

I had considered the chain wrench deal with v-belt. There are three reasons I didn't go this route

Thanks for explaining that. Yes, your concerns about that method are basically the same concerns I have.

Feed a small-medium diameter soft rope into the cylinder opening.

Yes, that's a clever trick that I've read about in a few places. I guess I would do that as a last resort, because I would be worried about putting this kind of unusual load on the various parts involved (bearings, pistons, rings etc). All those parts are quite strong, but also expensive, so I would want to not risk it. Especially because I'm creating a scenario that the engine designers didn't anticipate. On the other hand, since you've done it and it works, that tends to confirm that it's probably pretty safe.

I guess maybe a way to make that method a little safer is to feed the rope into two cylinders, not just one.

[monroe74]

erik:

I prefer to just use an impact wrench by itself, but my impact couldn't do loosen that one

From what I've read, it takes a big impact wrench. Like maybe a 3/4" drive, not just 1/2" drive.

I don't have an impact wrench, but I thought about taking the car to a local shop, and convincing them to just loosen the bolt for me (with their big air wrench), and then I drive home carefully with the nut a little loose. I don't see a problem with that, but then what about when I put it together? If I want to torque it properly, I still can't do that without a tool to hold the pulley stationary.

I could take it back to the shop, and have them tighten it with the same air wrench, but that's not really a good way to get the correct torque, right? An air wrench can have a torque setting, but I think it's not nearly as precise as using a proper torque wrench. But that requires the right tool to hold the pulley steady.

I have a feeling that when lots of shops do a timing belt job like this, they use an air wrench to tighten the bolt, which means it's probably not set to the right torque. Which I suppose doesn't matter much, but I'd rather do it right.

[hondaguy72]

Don't drive with it loose. You will damage the pulley and they are both expensive and hard to find. I can ship it out tomorrow morning if you'd like.

For about $30 you should own a good 1/2" breaker bar, not a ratchet. Using your leg on the wrench will get it if you have good leg strength. The car needs to be about 1 foot higher off the ground than stock ride height to get adequate clearance.

Being that there are four points on the pulley you won't need to attach the tool any other way. The vise grip on the control arm does not actually attach the tool. It only limits the tool from sliding towards the chassis, keeping the tool square with the pulley.

The amount of torque securing the bolt isn't as important as a very large amount of loctite on the bolt. It must not come loose or there will be severe engine damage/pulley damage.

[hondaguy72]

I was just going over the posted articles regarding removing the crank pulley bolt and this one in particular got my attention:

http://www.hondatuningmagazine.com/t...ool/index.html

They show a ratchet wrench on the crank pulley bolt. Please don't use a ratchet. Instead, use this:

That's what a breaker bar looks like. There is no way a ratchet will withstand the force needed in any sort of reliable way. Case in point; I was doing rear brakes on my brother's newer suburban. The rear discs needed to be serviced, so the caliper bracket needed to come off. All I had with me was a 3/8" ratchet. I extended the ratchet with 2' of threaded pipe. When I went to crack the nut loose, the ratchet broke and the end of the threaded pipe impacted the ground, my right pinky finger in between. The result was a trip to the ER and six stitches across the finger. The cut was down to the bone. I now only use the correct tool for the job or make the correct tool. Please learn from my mistake.

BTW, I taped up my pinky and put the truck back together before going to the ER. At the ER I refused Novocaine as it hurts worse than having the stitches done without. Never have Novocaine administered to your digits!

[theholycow]

I'll second that. A breaker bar is an important tool to have. It's useful, it's more pleasant than a ratchet with a pipe, and above all it's more safe. The amount of force involved in breaking a decent ratchet means that when it fails you're in a whole lot of danger...a pinky finger cut to the bone is a best case scenario.

I didn't know that the novocaine hurts worse than the stitches. When I severed the end of my left middle finger I wasn't in any condition to make decisions, but if I was I would still have wanted the novocaine. It was torture but the stitches were still torture too, even with the novocaine.

[IndyFetch]

Originally Posted by theholycow

I'll second that. A breaker bar is an important tool to have. It's useful, it's more pleasant than a ratchet with a pipe, and above all it's more safe. The amount of force involved in breaking a decent ratchet means that when it fails you're in a whole lot of danger...a pinky finger cut to the bone is a best case scenario.

I didn't know that the novocaine hurts worse than the stitches. When I severed the end of my left middle finger I wasn't in any condition to make decisions, but if I was I would still have wanted the novocaine. It was torture but the stitches were still torture too, even with the novocaine.

I smashed my left middle finger off when I was 15 and had it sewn back on. Luckily, I was in shock and couldn't feel anything. I had my hand gashed in 2008 working on a friend's new Suzuki Forenza. There was a bur on a weld that had not been filed off and it ripped the back of my hand open. The doc put several doses of novocaine or other numbing agent in my hand, and I could still feel everything. I told the guy to go ahead and start sewing it up because he had given me something like 10-12 sticks with the needle to try to numb it, and I was only going to need about 8 stitches. Go figure.

[monroe74]

hondaguy, thanks for your help with that tool. We've made the arrangements via PM.

Wow, sorry to hear about all those injuries. It's a good reminder that tools are dangerous. I have a pair of Kevlar gloves that I love. I try to wear them as much as possible. I think they provide a lot of protection.

And thanks for those good tips about the breaker bar. I have a good 1/2" breaker bar, 12" long. I'll probably need a longer one, but I can put a pipe over it (although I think that's not the safest method).

I also have a good Craftsman torque wrench, 1/2" drive, that looks like this:

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...u=00944597000P

Rated to 250 ft lbs. It has a 20" handle. So I should also be able to use that as a breaker bar, right? I just wouldn't put a pipe on it (the way the handle is designed, a pipe wouldn't really fit, anyway).

Another option is to head over to Harbor Freight and get this:

http://www.harborfreight.com/12-driv...bar-67933.html

1/2" drive, 25" handle, only $12.99. I know that price sounds too good to be true, but I've actually had good luck with 'cheap' items from Harbor Freight. What looks like the same thing is on the Sears web site for $20. If I want something longer I see Sears has one with a 30" handle for $30.

I've read stories about people using a 6' pipe (slipped over a breaker bar) on this bolt, but hopefully 20-30" will be enough. I would prefer to avoid the extra risk of using a pipe. It could slip.

[hondaguy72]

You'll want the breaker bar. Putting that much force on a torque wrench can mess with the calibration anyhow. Sorry I have not sent a tracking number yet. I must have misplaced my receipt. I would expect it on Wed or Thur. I'll keep looking for the slip.

My motto on injuries is, " If I'm not bleeding, it's not work." That finger injury did suck, though. All my own fault.