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04-16-2006, 05:38 PM
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#1
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Driving on E
Join Date: Sep 2005
Posts: 3,110
Country: United States
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Removing the crankshaft pully... ARGH!
I just can't do it.
My new engine is sitting in my garage and I figured I should replace the timing belt and water pump before I throw it in my car.
The damn bolt holding the crankshaft pully on won't budge.
At first I stuck a prybar and a screwdriver in the hole to offer some sort of resistance. The end result was a bent screwdriver and prybar.
Today I hooked up the air tools to try to move the thing. Nothing.
Does anyone have a secret (maybe with pictures?) on how to get this thing to budge? My next plan is to just take it to a mechanic and pay them to do it for me.
__________________
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04-16-2006, 05:44 PM
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#2
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FE nut
Join Date: Sep 2005
Posts: 1,020
Country: United States
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It seems that someone here,
It seems that someone here, perhaps Dax?, mentioned something about sticking something in the teeth of the flywheel and getting a 3' or 4' prybar and doing a lot of jumping up and down.
__________________
__________________
Horsepower is how hard you hit the wall, torque is how much of the wall you take with you.
2007 Prius,
Team Slow Burn
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04-16-2006, 07:13 PM
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#3
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Registered Member
Join Date: Jan 2006
Posts: 2,444
Country: United States
Location: Tiverton, RI
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pulley
My brother says that you need a 500-600 ft-lbs air impact wrench to crack it loose - for some reason the bolt seizes on the crank. This came up when I asked about my friends timing belt change.
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04-16-2006, 07:30 PM
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#4
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Registered Member
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 311
Country: United States
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With the air tools did you
With the air tools did you try all the following:
1. Crank the air pressure to about 120psi, this is probably 30psi over the rating on your gun, but it should take it.
2. Tighten, loosen, tighten, loosen... sometimes does the trick.
3. Are your air tools lubed? Seems to help out a little bit.
4. Are you using impact sockets? Normal sockets will not deliver as much torque to the bolt. (normal sockets flex more, thus absorbing some of the twisting force)
5. PB Blaster on the bolt
I hope these help!!
__________________
Anger is a gift!- Zack de la Rocha
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04-16-2006, 07:31 PM
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#5
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Registered Member
Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 270
Country: United States
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it once took an 11ft bar to
it once took an 11ft bar to break a honda pulley bolt loose...
9ft didn't work !!!
also a socket extension fits perfectly in the pulley hole and will not bend...however it can crack the lip of the block/oilpan
high tq impact wrench is recommended
followed by long *** breakerbar (may require welding...lollercopter)
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04-16-2006, 07:37 PM
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#6
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Registered Member
Join Date: Dec 2005
Posts: 4,223
Country: United States
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went thru the same thing
went thru the same thing with my accord. ended up taking it to the garage and the mechanic used his (better) impact wrench to break the seal. he was nice about it though - just had me pull up to the bay and he got it through the access hole in the fender well and wouldn't take any money.
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04-16-2006, 09:18 PM
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#7
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Registered Member
Join Date: Jan 2006
Posts: 2,444
Country: United States
Location: Tiverton, RI
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ARG
Ahhh professional courtesy is alive and well.
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04-16-2006, 09:24 PM
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#8
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Registered Member
Join Date: Nov 2005
Posts: 331
Country: United States
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Right on Bunger.
You need
Right on Bunger.
You need that 120psi.
You need decent impact sockets.
The impact wrench should be lubed well.
Try not to use extensions.
Then, Tighten, loosen, tighten, loosen. And stay flush dead on that bolt head so you transfer all that energy upon your nemesis.
Fun stuff
__________________
"You have to know the truth, and seek the truth, and the truth will set you free."
-unknown
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04-16-2006, 09:53 PM
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#9
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Driving on E
Join Date: Sep 2005
Posts: 3,110
Country: United States
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Re: With the air tools did you
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bunger
With the air tools did you try all the following:
1. Crank the air pressure to about 120psi, this is probably 30psi over the rating on your gun, but it should take it.
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The gun is rated at 90psi, so I did stop at 80. I'll try cranking it up to 120 tomorrow.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bunger
2. Tighten, loosen, tighten, loosen... sometimes does the trick.
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Tried this a little bit, but not too much. WIll try more with the 120psi tomorrow.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bunger
3. Are your air tools lubed? Seems to help out a little bit.
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Air tools are fairly new, only been used twice. I'll lube it up though for good measure.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bunger
4. Are you using impact sockets? Normal sockets will not deliver as much torque to the bolt. (normal sockets flex more, thus absorbing some of the twisting force)
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Using an impact socket, yes.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bunger
5. PB Blaster on the bolt
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I did this before the impact gun.
I'll be trying this again tomorrow, and then I'll be taking it to the shop down the street from me. Do you think I can lift a motor into my trunk? It doesn't seem that heavy.
BTW, does anyone know what I torque this bolt to once I'm done changing the timing belt?
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04-16-2006, 10:18 PM
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#10
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Registered Member
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 311
Country: United States
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Re: With the air tools did you
Quote:
Originally Posted by Matt Timion
The gun is rated at 90psi, so I did stop at 80. I'll try cranking it up to 120 tomorrow.
I'll be trying this again tomorrow, and then I'll be taking it to the shop down the street from me. Do you think I can lift a motor into my trunk? It doesn't seem that heavy.
BTW, does anyone know what I torque this bolt to once I'm done changing the timing belt?
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I've gone as high as 150 psi before... dunno how good that is for the hammers, but I've had the same tools for 6 years now, and they are still working ok. =)
Are you lifting the entire motor or just a short block? The entire thing can be a bit much for a single person.
119 ft/lbs on the crank pulley bolt.
__________________
__________________
Anger is a gift!- Zack de la Rocha
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