I'd like to confirm the firing order with a diagram if anyone has one. I've read it 1342. Is the cap from the fire wall to the front of the car in this order 1234. The order of plugs passenger to drivers side 1234? Meaning the top of the dizzy to the # 1 plug etc?
Looks like I need a now gasket for my ignition cap. How important are these? I managed to piece this together for now. How important is this seal and does anyone have a source for these?
The #1 cylinder is next to the crankshaft pulley, the #4 cylinder is next to the tranny.
When setting initial timing, you can't just rely on the cylinder #1 TDC mark on the crank pulley because you could be at TDC during the compression stroke or you could be at TDC between the exhaust and intake stroke. Removing the valve cover and looking at the valves as you rotate the crank to TDC will tell you which stroke you are on. Once you get it turned so that you are at #1 TDC of the compression stroke (when it should get a spark), you can put the dist cap on and hook up the plug wires so that the #1 spark plug wire is hooked up to the terminal that is lined up with the rotor. The rotor will turn clockwise when viewed from the passenger wheel, so you'll just hook up the rest of the plug wires up in the firing order.
I don't think there is a gasket that seals the plastic dist cap. There is an elongated o-ring that seals around the base of the dist shaft that keeps oil from the valve cover from dripping down on the transmission. These are common sources of leaks and are hard to find- I went to a hardware store and found a few o-rings that were the right size and put them in side by side.
Thanks again Eric.
The what is the #1 on the cap? All the ones I found on the net are round and are not clear.
I also want to make sure I didn't put the rotor on 180* out.
The reason I say that is I now get some backfiring after the vacuum advance install. I never had that before.
My friends at NAPA got me the info for the cap.
If anyone wants to know, facing the car with the dizzy on the left starting with the top, 3,4,2,1
My rotor was correct but I did cross the #1&2 wires......
Now to figure out the timing.
I cant find any info on setting the base timing. I know I need to unhook/plug the vacuum advance, but what mark do I use for 20* TDC? I have two marks with a red mark in the center. I'm not sure what mark I'm trying to hit.
Also, I'm unable to get the idle down below 800 rpm.~ or at least that what my factory tach is saying..... I'm going to try to hook another tach and see what it reads.
The manual I have doesn't show unhooking the vacuum like I thought I read somewhere. I suspect this is correct as my timing is spot on with the red mark.
I'm still suspicious of my tach. If I try to lower it to 750 is sounds really and starts funny. If I adjust it just a bit it sounds normal to me.
I've got a tach to hook up but not sure what wire I need to hook the sense wire to at the coil. Anyone know?
I did take it for a drive down the street and back and it seemed more responsive.
With the engine not running, turn the key to run and use a voltmeter and probe the two terminals on the coil. One will have 12 volts, the other won't. Hook the tach trigger wire to the terminal on the coil that did not have 12 volts.
My car starts better with the idle set closer to 850 rpms. You have the timing right- the red mark on the crank pulley is the one you should be lining up with the mark on the timing cover.
Advancing the timing a little more than the red mark will probably make it start and idle/run a little better, but if you need an emissions test, you will want to set it at the factory setting.
Was the procedure correct by not unhooking the vacuum advance ports?
I seem to remember reading that, but who knows they could have been talking about another car or just wrong.
Yes- according to the factory service manual, you are supposed to leave the vac hose hooked up. A little more advance won't hurt though- just listen for spark knock.
and are not clear. 
Linear Mode
