Here's my 0.02, so take it for what it's worth.
8, 10, 12, 14, 17, 19, and 32 mm sockets, ratchets, extensions and wrenches. A breaker bar for 1/2" drive is very helpful. A lower ball joint separator is invaluable too (aboug $10 from AutoZone). Don't get the one that looks like a fork. Get the one that looks like a small silver horseshoe with a big screw in the middle. You may want to use your wife's help for a few things, but she won't even really need to get dirty.
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Is it going to be difficult doing it by myself?
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If it's your first time...probably, but not impossible. I can do a complete swap ENTIRELY by myself now in about 6 hours, but I guess I'm a seasoned veteran.
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Anything to look out for?
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Read below...I'll try to help by explaining the gist of it.
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What do I need again for that pin that holds the shift linkage in?
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I purchased a drift pin/chisel set from Sears...17 pieces I think. I use the 1/4" flat tipped drift pin and a 3 lb sledge hammer (12" length). I've NEVER had a problem with this setup. Just be sure to jack the car up high enough to be able to swing the hammer. This is one of the FIRST things I undo, so that I can jack the car up really high to get it loose, then lower it some afterwards to get the clearance for the engine and the hoist (I've got only standard height ceilings in my shop). My motto is 'do the hardest parts first.'
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are there any "how to's" on the internet?
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Not that I'm aware of, but I'm sure there's SOMETHING on H-T.
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Anything else you can think of?
This swap will be a big one. Not only will I be going from DPFI->MPFI, but I'll also go from obd0 to obd1. Lots and lots of wiring, as well as all of the joys of the new engine/transmission.
Advice needed as the day approaches.
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I've never done the D to MPFI or OBD-0 to -1 swaps, so I may not be too much help there, but if you really get stuck somewhere, I'm willing to let you have my number to call. When are you doing the swap? Will you have an alternative ride during the time that the swap takes place? Expect at least TWO trips to either the parts store or the dealership.
OK, here's the basic rundown for me:
REMOVE 32mm NUTS FROM AXLES:
Pop the center caps out of your wheels. You may need to take the wheel off to do this. If you do, bolt the wheels back on and put the car on the floor. Have your girlfriend stand on the brakes. Put the 32 mm socket and breaker bar on the nut, and an extension pipe if you have it. Stand on that sucker. The idea is to slowly apply the torque, so get onto the bar slowly...balance yourself on the fender of the car. If it still doesn't break loose under your weight, bounce slowly. I promise it will come loose...it works every time with my skinny 125 lb frame and about a 2 ft breaker bar.
B!TCH PIN REMOVAL:
3 lb sledge hammer and 1/4" flat tipped drift pin. Piece of cake.
Disconnect the exhaust pipe at the header under the car. Two spring bolts take a 12 and 14 mm to undo. If you have ratcheting wrenches this is SO much easier, but you can do it with plain wrenches.
Next, disconnect the battery (10 mm), drain the coolant, engine oil, and transmission oil. You can go ahead and disconnect all coolant hoses if you want to. You're already 5-spd, so you don't have to worry about transmission coolers or anything.
On 88-91's, I like to remove the battery tray before pulling the engine - it gives you TONS more room. Take the battery out, take out the plastic tray, and then there are (i think) three 12 mm bolts - two on top and one on the inside of the frame rail.
If you've got power steering, unbolt the pump from the bracket and just set the pump to the side out of the way. Don't undo any of the lines (it's not necessary). If you've got cruise control, you may need to unbolt the control box first and move it out of the way before you can get to the power steering stuff.
On 88-91's, I like to remove the radiator before pulling the eingine. Undo the electrical connection for both fans first. The radiator fan connection is under where the battery tray was. I can't remember off the top of my head where the other one is...just look for it. There are also some relays bolted to the radiator that must be removed, as well as (i think) the AC compressor clutch electrical connection. Just make sure all wires are disconnected before you start yanking. There are four 10 mm bolts holding the brackets to the radiator on. You're going to have to get creative getting it out. You've got to clear the AC lines - these are aluminum and can bend a little. You may want to try to take the fans off the radiator before pulling it out, but it's not necessary.
Undo your clutch cable, throttle cable, speedo cable (lift the boot and use pliers to pull out the small wire clip). Go ahead and undo all your wiring harness at the shock towers. You can just leave the harness on the engine and pull it out as one unit. Check and double check that all wires are disconnected. Disconnect fuel lines at this point.
If your car's not already up on stands, do that now.
SUSPENSION:
Pull off your wheels. On the very bottom of the suspension, remove the cotter pin with pliers (always use new cotter pins when putting it back together) and then remove the 17 mm castle nut from the lower ball joint. Use your ball joint tool to separate the lower joint. Get it kind of tight, then whack the lower control arm (LCA) a few times with the hammer...it should pop loose...if not, tighten a tiny bit more and give it another whack. Remove the 17 mm nut from the 17 mm bolt that holds the shock fork to the LCA. Use the hammer and 1/4" drift pin to knock the fluted bolt out of it's home. Remove the 14mm bolt holding the fork onto the shock. Fish the fork out of the car...it's kind of tricky. Now, lift the whole assembly up and out of the LCA (the lower ball joint threads will clear it) and rotate the assembly out and towards the rear of the car, all the while pushing the axle out of the hub. Once the axle is out of the hub, use a big flat head screwdriver to pop the axles out of the transmission.
For more room while pulling the engine, you may want to remove the exhaust manifold, but this isn't necessary. If you do, first separate the upper and lower halves of the manifold. Use a 14mm socket (deep well), an long extension (maybe a combination of extensions) and the breaker bar. They will be rusted and you will need a long handle with gentle pressure to get them loose. After that, take off all the 12mm nuts holding it onto the head. Don't worry if you pull the studs out of the head...it's ok. There are more 12 mm nuts holding the manifold to a bracket underneath the car. Take these out. Now take out the lower half of the manifold, then the upper half.
All that should be left (if I'm not forgetting anything) is the enigne mount bolts. You can go ahead and remove the rear mount bracket and all other mounts except the tranny top mount and the timing belt cover mount. Now rig up your hoist and chain. Get some tension on the chain (not a lot). Remove the bolts holding the side mounts in. Lower the assembly a little with the hoist and completely remove the tranny top mount from the tranny. You may want to break all these bolts loose before lowering the engine. This will give you a lot more room to work with.
If you're working with an engine leveler on your hoist, you need to crank it to where the engine is at a pretty good angle with the timing belt cover pointing up. If you don't have an engine leveler, drop the assembly to the ground and re-rig your chain to where it will pick the engine/tranny up at an angle. This is a good time to have your wife working the hoist while you guide things and make sure nothing is still hooked up. Once you have the assmebly at an angle, lift it straight up and out.
Congrats, you've pulled your first engine.
**Sorry for the lengthy post!!!***
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