ECT Analyzer/manual TC lockup

[diamondlarry]

Actually, I think it was me that was the hijacker. Thanks for the help.

[GasSavers_Bruce]

Probably the first step would be to tap off the wiring or connector to an LED to at least have a TCC indicator. This'd be a lot safer than putting it on a switch, because leaving it locked could potentially stall the engine if the brakes are locked up to avoid an accident, and it may also be hard on the car if I put in too much throttle going uphill and the Powertrain Control Module downshifts the transmission. My thought is that I could just run a couple leads out the back of the hood so that a LED rests on the HVAC intake.

How can I locate the PCM? I have several fuse blocks under the hood.

[GasSavers_TomO]

the ECU on Toyotas (which is who actually makes most of the parts for your car) is usually located just about on the floor directly behind the center console. It may be just under the the backside of the center console as well (towards the dash). It's been a year since I've had to pull an ECU out of a Prizm so bear with me.

[GasSavers_Bruce]

Ugh.

If getting at the ECU wiring is anywhere near as bad as replacing a heater core, I'd skip it. Ripping the dash out is a lot of work, and I'd probably screw something up in doing it. (Take it apart, put it back together, figure out what to do with the parts left over.)

For an indicator at least, it sounds like tapping into the transmission end of the harness may be easier, though I'd need help finding that as well.

Thanks!

[Toysrme]

All it takes is a relay to ground the ECU's signal throguh a 10w resistor, and a switch to send 9-12v of current through the other side of the relay when you want / don't want the torque convertor locked up.
This idea would only help restarting the engine via the clutch during pulse & glide, which would be very harsh since it doesn't slip... It's either on, or it's off...

In actuality. This wouldn't help you hardly at all. Via the TCCU logic, in any gear near an overdrive gear (3&4th on a 4 speed, 4 & 5th in the 5-speeds & 4-6 in the 6-speeds.), anytime the VTA signal reads <5% of the previously measured vta signal, the torque convter is locked to begin with, provided the engine is warm.
Not only that, but OEM torque convertors are weak as ****ing piss. You'd have to spend $500-1000 to have your torque convertor custom rebuilt with a sick clutch pack, then swap, or pay it to be swapped out.







This is not something that will pan out. btw, you can build a complete manual controller via a 6-sway rotary switch for about $15 for any of the 4 speed Asian-Warner transmissions in the same manner as described above.




You also get into an unlocked torque convertor has more power loss, but you also have the mechanical benifit of it's flash speed, which has an absolutely gigantic short term impact in torque output when you're on the throttle. In the order of 1.8-2.0x torque output until it has caught up.

[rh77]

I have separate post on this subject and noticed this one...

Basically the TC on my '98 Integra 4-speed is very TPS-specific. I have the shop manual, pinouts, and flow-charts of the TC lockup condition (zero, partial, half, or full) and sensor requirements.

I'm not sure what's going on, but the TC will lock-up at 'full' when over 35% TPS, but as soon as it drops below that at cruise, it unlocks and re-shifts into partial at 20%, for example (I can't hold-on to it with less throttle).

All other conditions are in-place - a specific example today:

• Coolant = Full Operating Temp (202F)
• VSS reads 55+ MPH
• Secondary Lock-Up Sensor is not showing "Hill Logic" override
• Transmission Selector in Top Gear: D4
• IAT in the high 80s

I don't have the diagram with me right now, but I can't determine if altering the electronic TPS signal will help, or if it's the actual TPS cable to the transmission that needs tightening.

Can anyone shed some light on a possible fix. I'm running down the highway in zero or partial lockup and it's killing my FE!

RH77

[MetroMPG]

RH77, not to rub salt in the wound, but remind me again why you're driving an auto? Is it for the other driver in the house?

[rh77]

Originally Posted by MetroMPG

RH77, not to rub salt in the wound, but remind me again why you're driving an auto? Is it for the other driver in the house?

Ouch...Salt.

Yes, my wife can't/won't drive a manual. I resolved to driving her old car to save on a car payment and to have 2 autos around the house so it can be driven by either party.

The next solution would be to trade the 'Teg on a different, more fuel-efficient automatic. The problem is that the car holds sentimental value from an untimely death in the family, and is a touchy subject to discuss selling it.

-RH77

[MetroMPG]

Okey dokey. Just wondering. (You probably already mentioned this when I wasn't paying attention.)

[SVOboy]

Originally Posted by rh77

I have separate post on this subject and noticed this one...

Basically the TC on my '98 Integra 4-speed is very TPS-specific. I have the shop manual, pinouts, and flow-charts of the TC lockup condition (zero, partial, half, or full) and sensor requirements.

I'm not sure what's going on, but the TC will lock-up at 'full' when over 35% TPS, but as soon as it drops below that at cruise, it unlocks and re-shifts into partial at 20%, for example (I can't hold-on to it with less throttle).

All other conditions are in-place - a specific example today:

• Coolant = Full Operating Temp (202F)
• VSS reads 55+ MPH
• Secondary Lock-Up Sensor is not showing "Hill Logic" override
• Transmission Selector in Top Gear: D4
• IAT in the high 80s

I don't have the diagram with me right now, but I can't determine if altering the electronic TPS signal will help, or if it's the actual TPS cable to the transmission that needs tightening.

Can anyone shed some light on a possible fix. I'm running down the highway in zero or partial lockup and it's killing my FE!

RH77

On the CRX, there is only zero and full lockup, and full lockup can be induced by giving the wire running from the ecu to the solenoid a constant 12V. Meaning, it will lock up when it gets warm if it is getting the 12V, but not otherwise. It's odd that it doesn't stay always locked up, but that's the case. You could attempt through a switch in line with the full lockup wire and a 12v source and seeing if it will activate lockup when you're on the highway. Either that our you could neutral bomb the transmission and swap in a stick,