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05-15-2008, 10:43 PM
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#1
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Registered Member
Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 201
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ok, so here goes:
1. I got the car to run, but my fuel pump kill switch seems to be too good at it's job. I fully tested the main relay, another spare relay, both fine. I jumped the fuel pump to run w/ ignition on, no problem, can hear it fine. It seems when I manipulate the kill switch (which is upstream of the main relay) it sometimes interferes with the signal to the fuel pump relay and has to be "reset", usually by turning off the kill switch (no power to pump), removing the key in the ignition completely, then turning the kill switch to the "ON" position (and thus power to pump), then reinserting the key and starting the car. This convoluted method works 90% of the time. The other 10% I disconnect the negative battery cable for a few seconds then repeat the above process with mostly success. If/when I get the car to fire (and the pump is audibly primed beforehand) the car never cuts off unless I remove the key like normal or cue the kill switch. The kill switch is a simple lighted rocker and I've decided to upgrade to a true relay activated, um, relay switch. This should clear up my starting issues. Same goes for the push button start, although I've never had a problem yet from it.
2. The throttle still sticks shut, I've determined its not the throttle plate or the spring/cable, it must be the shaft that it rotates w/ or even a sticky TPS. Oh well, I adapted a machine screw to stop the cable/spring from hitting rock bottom and it has worked so far, although it seems to slowly back out.
3. I also blew several LEDs up testing my VTEC engagement light, all the LEDs tested were spares w/o voltage readings and apparently none could handle 12v. My MM confirmed that w/ the front wheels off the ground, w/ the car in 1st or 2nd, and the temp. gauge a little off "C", my VTEC engages at 3.5k RPM. I suspect on the road the engagement will be at the lower 2.5k but w/o load my test set the bar higher and MAP vacuum wasn't strong enough at 2.5k.
4. Shift light works! Also noticed on the VTEC tests the light kicks on once at a low, slow, RPM shift point and again briefly up past 3k. Odd. Also cut the clutch switch that I just hooked up b/c the HF already had a functioning one somehow. No CEL, oh well.
Once I re-wire and relay the kill switches I may be able to take the beast out for an alignment and that much closer to a DD. With all my electrical issues lately I will also invest in a mini-fire extinguisher. I don't need 2.5 years of tediously slow progress going up in flames b/c of some errant ground or short. AD
PS. Sorry this has become a build thread of late. Comments welcome, however.
__________________
'85 CRX Si Original EW3 @ 254k...suck it Detroit
'89 CRX HF-Z1 ~ When haste is needed
'97 Civic DX Hatch ~ Formerly 600hp, now 0hp, soon 115hp.
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05-16-2008, 12:47 AM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2007
Posts: 736
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Oh, don't be sorry this has become a build thread! It's got at current 789 views and counting! Popular threads are popular threads, and it happens to be one of my favorites, too. Keep us all posted. I'm very interested as I would like to eventually put a more powerful and efficient engine in my CRX too.
__________________
Looking to trade for an early 1988 Honda CRX HF (Pillar mounted seat belts)
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