1996 Nissan 240 SR20 swap issues

[IndyFetch]

I am helping a friend re-install the SR20 turbo motor in his son's 1996 Nissan 240. For some reason, the motor is not going all the way in. It stops when the engine and transmission bell housing about an inch to an inch and a half away. We removed everything that could be blocking the engine (accessories, hoses, motor mounts), and we have changed the engine and transmission angles countless times. After spending 3 hours each of the past 2 days, I ask if anyone here can offer any tips.

We removed and re-installed the clutch disc and clutch fingers today. The clutch alignment tool fits in there fine, and everything seemingly lines up.

I removed and re-installed the clutch fork and throw-out bearing, and it is all the way back on the input shaft bearing. It should not be in the way.

We turned the engine over a few times by hand to try to re-align the splines, but it did not make any difference.

This engine and transmission were in the car before, and it was just removed for a rebuild.

Ideas?

[GasSavers_Erik]

90% of the time I have trouble getting the input shaft to slide into the clutch disk hub. It is a tight fit and everything has to be aligned perfectly. I turn crank about 5 degrees and then wiggle the trans while pushing it toward the engine and repeat until they finally slide together. I like to thread in extra long alignment bolts to be sure everything is going together straight.

Did you change the clutch disk? If so, it might be the wrong one and the hub might not match the input shaft.

[IndyFetch]

Clutch disk is the same. The only parts changed out were engine internals.

[theholycow]

Is the clutch disc facing the right direction? Its hub may stick out more on one side than the other.

When I put the transmission in my Buick I had the same problem, but first it was because the input shaft retainer sleeve (aka "quill") was too long, then it was because the input shaft itself was too long (didn't actually need to shorted the shaft, but needed to ream out the pilot bushing for the thicker part of the shaft) (that sounds really dirty ).

[IndyFetch]

Originally Posted by theholycow

Is the clutch disc facing the right direction? Its hub may stick out more on one side than the other.

I asked Greg the same question, and he pulled the whole clutch assembly back out to show me that the disk was oriented correctly. It is labeled "TM Side." It also matches the shop manual orientation.

When I put the transmission in my Buick I had the same problem, but first it was because the input shaft retainer sleeve (aka "quill") was too long, then it was because the input shaft itself was too long (didn't actually need to shorted the shaft, but needed to ream out the pilot bushing for the thicker part of the shaft) (that sounds really dirty ).[/QUOTE]

Did it hurt?

[theholycow]

Yeah, but it hurt so good.

[kamesama980]

put the trans in gear, then spin the crankshaft. I've had the same problem with my car: with the trans in neutral, spinning the crank spins the input shaft with it so the shafts don't move relative to eachother. I had the back wheels off the ground though so I could spin the driveshaft more easily than the crank and viola, popped right on.

[IndyFetch]

The car's owner (the kid) got it back in. That's probably what he did. I was sick for 5 weeks and only got over there a couple of hours.

Thanks for the advice though. I'll bet you were right.