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Old 05-06-2008, 10:08 PM   #11
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OK Here we go again.
Crank in place after polish and good cleaning


Dry film lubircant on sides

Ceramic coated on tops

Pistons in their new home (rings spaced accordingly)
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Old 05-06-2008, 10:09 PM   #12
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Cam box that had me worried. Notice any labeling problems? No worries though it's the right one[weihnacht]

New cam gear

Head cleaned and re-assembled

New valves in there home

Vtec-e in 12 valve mode (Torque mode lol)
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Old 05-06-2008, 10:10 PM   #13
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Exhaust side. Mild porting

Intake side. Port floor untouched. He said he would have liked to add some. Next time.

Upclose shot
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Old 05-27-2008, 07:40 PM   #14
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any progress on this build? Any ideas for a base map to tune this thing?
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Old 05-27-2008, 11:39 PM   #15
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Beautiful.

Now the jealousy sets in.

If you need a base map I could take some screen shots of my calibration in AEM Pro and then you could enter the values into your program by hand.
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Old 05-29-2008, 07:27 AM   #16
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i was wondering if you could post up all the prices on everything you've done so far, and if you could post up all the specs? right now im in the process of either buying a D16Z6 or a D16Y8 to build for fe. i don't know if i want to go with the 1.6 or 1.5 as of yet. my Z6 is starting to knock now so i need a replacement soon and start to build it or another soon. thanks!
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Old 05-29-2008, 09:50 PM   #17
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The Y8 is a better choice for an FE build, but if your car is OBD1, it may not be worth the trouble of converting to OBD2.

Why not a Y5? You wont notice the power difference between a Y5 and Y8. The Y5 feels faster around town. If you use a VTEC trans the Y5 is faster.

Endyn preps heads for FE. Their pistons also improve FE.
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Old 06-02-2008, 05:51 PM   #18
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Cool Thread- I have just finished putting a y5 head and all the rest on a y7 in a 96 hatch. It turned out to be much more complicated that I had hoped but the car is running solid on its first first full tank of gas. I did a mild port job on the head and matched the y5 intake manifold to the head as well. I bumped the compression ratio to 10.3/1 and have the 96-00 ex headers with a 2.5" cat. no pinging on regular anf I do not feel any timing being pulled by the ecu so i think 10.3 is safe. the car is on eibach sportline springs with koni yellows and suspension techniques anti sway bars. i am running hx wheels with toyo t1r 195-55-14 tires. I'll post the whole project later but I like what you are doing. My car is quicker that it was as a y7 and it is getting better millage. I'll document how much better soon. Good luck! I learned allot and might be able to answer a few questions. I will tell you that if you get a good tune going ob1 solves lots of headaches i have experienced getting rid of CELs.
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Old 06-10-2008, 09:44 AM   #19
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Wink

Civicdx94: I have been spread so thin lately that this has been put on the back burner. Don't worry I just recieced my modded oil pump back from ENDYN so now things should start falling back into place. By the way ENDYN does amazing work.

Suspendedhatch: Thank you for being so willing to share information with others. It's hard sometimes to obatin information and sometimes when others ask for it those who have earned may not feel inclined to share it so sharing is commendable. I just noticed that in your first post in my thread you said I would be your hero if I used Rollerwave's in my block. I have thought this many times but, right now I'm a poor college student who is paying out of pocket to complete my schooling so I can't really afford it right now. Although Rollerwaves would be sweet for now it's out of the question.

93dasgr: I have no problem sharing and I hope this helps you.

Rod bearings 8 top and bottom Honda: $95.60
Main bearings 10 upper and lower Honda: $119.60
Complete set of piston rings Honda: $141.68
Thrust Washers Honda: $12.98
Complete Gasket kit from FJT: $79.00
Y-series water pump FJT: $52.75
Oil pump and upgrade from ENDYN: $245.73
Head bolts: $60
Timing belt and tensioner: $100
Rear motor mount insert Ebay: $30
Custom built trans Bone: $400
P&p,Head assembly,Stainless valves Hone&clean block, Pistons ceramic coated, Skirts with dry film lubircant all done by the local machine shop: $725
New Sachs clutch and lighten, balance, and re-surface flywheel: $300
Bisi cam, Springs, Titanium retainers, and bisi adjustable cam gear: $750
Y5 block, head, IM and other box of random parts: $250
240 Injectors: Horse trade for an extra z6 IM that I didn't need
used header: $35
Virgin p28: $100
Chipping and basemap: $75
Rywire Jumper harness: $60 used

As you can see I have plenty of money wrapped up into this build about $3,632.34 to be exact. If I were to do this again(remember I wanted power and FE) I would have just swapped a y5 head onto a good block and went with a cheap turbo set-up. But you live and learn and I hope others can learn from this build as well.

mini-e: Yea complication will ensue esspecially if you have never done anything like this before but, if one has the focus then it will get done. I'm glad you got your car running that is awsome. I'm hopping that sometime soon I'll have mine back on the road. As of right now I can't think of any questions I have but, I won't be shy if I do have a question.

Thanks again guys,
Chris
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Old 06-10-2008, 09:52 AM   #20
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Glad to see they didn't really polish the intake port.
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