VX wiring harness? Help!

[FormulaTwo]

Alright

Recently I hard wired my egr and 5 wire o2.
Now I am in the middle of wiring hell.
Apparently the ECU i had was a californian version, which used a 4 wire and no egr. So due to my hard wiring the ecu fried itself and now the car is not driveable.

It starts and idles fine. But will only rev to 1500rpm and there is no signal to the radiator fan so it eventually overheats.

So i have decided to do things right this time around.

today, I swapped over my engine harness to a vx.
Now, the rest of the harness, i guess the dash harness? is still CX.....
My cx harness is pretty hacked up at the ecu. I would like to avoid using it if at all possible.

From what i can tell the wires running through the firewall do not just run straight to the ecu, but also to everything else under there.
I have no problems with removing my dash to fix this.

Do any of you guys know what my options here are?
I am guessing i have 3 options here.....

1. i need to buy a VX harness. (the one that runs through the firewall)
2. find a way to repin what i have.
or
3. Find a different harness that will work (ex, lx, etc....)


Help me get pointed in the right direction here guys.
Wiring issues are not my favorite thing in the world.
My car does not run and I need to figure this out.

[Matt Timion]

I'm willing to bet that any dash harness from a 92-95 civic hatchback should work, with one exception: The VX had an upshift light.

Honestly, if your car starts I really doubt that the ECU is fried, unless you have examined it and see the fried portion.

Another option is to contact the guys at Rywire.com and ask them if they can help you out. You can also look for complete harnesses on various honda sites.

I'll be on the lookout for you.

[FormulaTwo]

not sure
i know my CX harness has no wires for vtec, or egr, or 5 wire o2 leading from the plug at the firewall, down to the ecu. just an empty slot.

i have an upshift light though.

[Gary Palmer]

I wouldn't presume you necessarily fried anything. I also wouldn't go ripping out the wiring harness.

First thing I'd suggest is try disconnecting the egr and the 5 wire's for the Oxygen sensor. Worst case, you'll get a CEL, but you can see if the car will rev past the 1500 limit, or not. If it does, then you most likely didn't fry the ecu, you just have something wired up hinky-jinky.

Next thing I'd do is get a DVM and make yourself a long test lead, so you can start checking your wiring. You'll need to have a copy of the schematic, for that year and type of car. Then you need to look at the ecu connector, to figure out how it's numbered. What you need to do is to trace out the wire's you belive you changed, to verify that they really go where you think you wired them. I would suggest making a copy of the schematic, then you can use a high-lighter, to color in the wire's you check, one at a time as you check them.

My guess is that you just have two wires crossed, or something like that. If you have the California ECU, I belive it uses a 4 wire oxygen sensor, not the 5 wire sensor. The two sensor signals are not the same, so you will need to change back to a 4 wire sensor, or get a non-California, VX ecu. The less expensive route would be to go get a 4 wire sensor.

I just wired a used 4 wire sensor, taken from a Chrysler 3.3L engine, at the junk yard, into my 89 Civic. It's working great, but it's also a bit of a crap shoot, at the junk yard, I just looked for a Chrysler because I have the shop manual for it and the one I took out looked like it had been burning lean.

[FormulaTwo]

Problem has been fixed
thanks for the help


The 1500 rpm problem was my TPS sensor going bad. I unplugged it and the car idled at 3000rpm but was driveable. So i replaced this sensor with one i had from another civic. When i removed the one on the car, the spring and internal workings of it actually fell apart. The underside of it was cracked? Not really sure how this could have happened but regardless the car now idles and drives fine.

The overheating problem was actually not related to the RPM problem at all.
There was a wire dangling around inside of my dash which had ground itself out on metal.

Apparently the wire ran to the heater/blower etc... which is also linked to the radiator fan.
The fuse was blown causing neither to work.
grill block + Blown fuse for radiator fan = overheating
I replaced the 7.5 fuse and taped up the wire under the dash.


I ended up buying a VX dash harness. Found one cheap here locally. I should have this installed by tomorrow.

So now everything will be running off of the oem VX wiring.