Uh oh... stripped spark plug threads?

[JanGeo]

Yeah the dipstick puts the right amount on and cod engine is also important but not sub zero or else the hole gets tighter!

When I first changed my xB plugs I found some were quite loose from the factory. I applied the copper antiseize to mine and that made a big difference when they went in and out a few times - need to check them sometime soon after a year of so and see how they are doing.

[VetteOwner]

ive done the dipstick drip a few times when im in a pinch. better than nothin!

[GasSavers_GasUser]

Originally Posted by VetteOwner

ive always put quite alot on, even if it does get into the cyl it burns off on the 1st or 2nd explosion haha

Yeah, I just don't like to be sloppy when I do it. That's why I said a little bit. I guess I am a neat freak.

[GasSavers_TomO]

Originally Posted by GasUser

Yeah, I just don't like to be sloppy when I do it. That's why I said a little bit. I guess I am a neat freak.

"Neat" and "Anti-Seize Compound" should rarely be used in the same sentence, lol.

I usually have the new plug in the socket already when I gently apply enough compound to cover the first 4-5 threads of the plug and then immediately install the new plug, yet somehow I manage to still get the compound on my fingers. That's part of the reason for picking up a cheap box of gloves for keeping that stuff off my hands, plus it makes cleanup much easier.

[VetteOwner]

Originally Posted by TomO

"Neat" and "Anti-Seize Compound" should rarely be used in the same sentence, lol.

I usually have the new plug in the socket already when I gently apply enough compound to cover the first 4-5 threads of the plug and then immediately install the new plug, yet somehow I manage to still get the compound on my fingers. That's part of the reason for picking up a cheap box of gloves for keeping that stuff off my hands, plus it makes cleanup much easier.

lol thats the saying of the century...

usually ends up in the back of my arm or elbow....

[isaacclodfelter]

I just did a repair of the #4 cylinder's spark plug socket on an '87 Toyota pickup. The sleeve insert that I got with the kit ended up sticking out a bit. When I flanged out the end of it where the binding grooves are, I don't know if they got a good seat in the aluminum of the cylinder head, but it's staying in place. Here's the problem:

When I start it up, the same cylinder won't fire. The spark plug wire sparks on a ground, and an extra plug sparks as well (although weak).

What's going on? What can I check before having to take it to a mechanic?

[GasSavers_Erik]

If your truck has a carburetor, check the intake runner that leads to that cylinder for vacuum lines. A leaky line (example: brake booster hose) can cause that one cylinder to run very lean and misfire, especially at idle.

[IndyFetch]

Originally Posted by Erik

If your truck has a carburetor, check the intake runner that leads to that cylinder for vacuum lines. A leaky line (example: brake booster hose) can cause that one cylinder to run very lean and misfire, especially at idle.

^^ Very smart idea. I would have never thought of that.

[isaacclodfelter]

Originally Posted by Erik

If your truck has a carburetor, check the intake runner that leads to that cylinder for vacuum lines. A leaky line (example: brake booster hose) can cause that one cylinder to run very lean and misfire, especially at idle.

I did almost detach a hose from the master cylinder, but put it back quick 'cause it was letting pressure out. The vacuum lines all seem tight and without cracks.

Bought new plug wires.

Still misfiring, although it seems to hit them all during startup - it runs rough once its running.

[GasSavers_Erik]

You might use a compression tester to be sure the compression is even among all of the cylinders (maybe some metal filings from the thread repair damaged the piston rings).

If compression is good and spark is good, then it must be a fuel issue.