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Old 11-14-2007, 04:38 PM   #31
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LOL not a very good idea...water and engines dont mix! especially when the water get sto places where it should never be, (ie crankcase, pistons, rings)
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Old 11-14-2007, 05:10 PM   #32
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LOL not a very good idea...water and engines dont mix! especially when the water get sto places where it should never be, (ie crankcase, pistons, rings)
What about water injection? That's been around since WWII
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Old 11-14-2007, 06:43 PM   #33
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All the joints where water could get into the crankcase are either coated in oil, or sealed by a gasket. Most pistons are made of aluminum these days, and they're already exposed to huge amounts of humidity on a regular basis.
The only real danger in using water for carbon cleaning is the possibility of adding it too fast, causing a cylinder to hydrolock and bend or break a connecting rod.
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Old 11-14-2007, 07:44 PM   #34
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The only real danger in using water for carbon cleaning is the possibility of adding it too fast, causing a cylinder to hydrolock and bend or break a connecting rod.
Which can happen with any liquid being poured into the engine. So in reality, I suppose using water is about the same. Though I don't know if it would have the same affect as Seafoam.
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Old 11-14-2007, 08:01 PM   #35
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^^^ Thus my reason for using the hand pump sprayer...it atomizes the liquid better than just letting a vacuum hose suck it in. Less chance of hydrolock.
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Old 11-14-2007, 08:13 PM   #36
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^^^ Thus my reason for using the hand pump sprayer...it atomizes the liquid better than just letting a vacuum hose suck it in. Less chance of hydrolock.
That method does sound the best. I just have no hand pump sprayer, but I did have a funnel. If I come across one around the house, I'll try that method next time.
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Old 11-14-2007, 08:19 PM   #37
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BTW the hand pump from Home Depot was less than 5 dollars. I also use it for many other things around the house so it was a good investment.
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Old 11-14-2007, 08:56 PM   #38
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with seafoam your supposed to let the engine idle high(usually when you take off the brake booster line it jumps to 2k rpm) and then pour as fast as you can without stalling. when you think youve let enough go thru the system(when the cloud starts to form) let off the throttle if you have to hold it open and dump fast and stall the engine with it(once it stalls stop pouring) you arent gonan hydrolock the car with a 1/3 can of seafoam. Let it sit for 4-5 minutes. then restart and immediately drive the hell outa the car.

the whole point of dumping it in is to let a pool of it sit and let it get splashed everywhere. your not trying to "burn it" your trying to evenly coat all the surfaces...

it might wanna misfire but just give it more gas and it will eventually go.



i wanna know how water magically cleans caked on carbon...if youve ever taken apart a TB and all the carbon in there, no ammount of water short of a water jet (metal cutting tool using water) is gonan clean that crap off...need paint thinner, carb cleaner, brake cleaner, somehting...seafoam (kidna expensive to be cleanin parts with and has a horrid odor)
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Old 11-14-2007, 09:03 PM   #39
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steam baby

LOL maybe havent tried that...but ehhh i still dont liek the idea

least with seafaom you get to play with an entertaining blue/white/grey cloud for a few minutes. lol i was at a stopsign at the end of my road and when i went to pull out i left the car behind me in a HUGE cloud!!! the chevette has a nice smooth get up and go for a manual. the rpms stay up for a second after i push in the clutch so the shifting is smoother than an automatic. lol my truck is another story. it goes but with all my mods on it throttle response is insane so it almost sropps immediately, that and it cnt help that the shifter is one of the long ones(like most trucks) not a console shifter.
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Old 11-14-2007, 10:05 PM   #40
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with seafoam your supposed to let the engine idle high(usually when you take off the brake booster line it jumps to 2k rpm) and then pour as fast as you can without stalling. when you think youve let enough go thru the system(when the cloud starts to form) let off the throttle if you have to hold it open and dump fast and stall the engine with it(once it stalls stop pouring) you arent gonan hydrolock the car with a 1/3 can of seafoam. Let it sit for 4-5 minutes. then restart and immediately drive the hell outa the car.

the whole point of dumping it in is to let a pool of it sit and let it get splashed everywhere. your not trying to "burn it" your trying to evenly coat all the surfaces...
I've heard of this method to do it, and have also heard of hydrolocking the motor using this method. If you read the can, it says to pour it VERY slowly and says nothing about stalling the motor. With a tiny 1.5L motor, if you poured 1/3 of the can down into the motor all at once, and somehow it all goes into one cylinder instead of evenly into all 4, I can see it doing some major harm. Just because it's combustible, isn't mean it will be able to be compressed in a liquid state.

If I was brave, and it was an old motor I had a replacement for, I would possibly try the "pour till it stalls" method, but I'm not in that situation right now.

And the cloud behind my car actually didn't form at all until I restarted the car after having it sit for the prescribed 5 minutes. I did use 1/3 of the can too, as stated is the max that should be used in my size engine.

But if you've used that method without a problem, congrats, I'm just scared when it comes to pouring liquid into the intake of my only car right now.
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