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Old 06-28-2007, 06:39 AM   #11
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http://autozone.com/selectedZip,4680.../selectZip.htm

Yeah, that's what I ended up getting too since I'm so cheap . It seemed to work on my 87 rx-7 years ago. Only problem I noticed was you really have to keep it dry for the 24hrs before topcoating. Dew formed on my metro overnight after rust treating some areas on the hatch, and it started to flash rust at the edges . I'll have to redo it soon.
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Old 06-28-2007, 07:39 PM   #12
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I had some rust in the back of my 89 civic hatch (couldn't find the leak) so I popped a hole in the spare wheel area and used "the must for rust" and put bedliner over it. Worked great. My sister ran with the idea on mine/her/ then my 88 integra and she used the spray cans which suck, and it wasn't textured, and it cracked and peeled. Use the roll on texture roller works best.
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Old 06-28-2007, 11:09 PM   #13
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I do the motor oil/grease method. Makes life a little easier when washing crud off the frame rails
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Old 07-01-2007, 02:28 PM   #14
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Try using magnesium strips, the magnesium acts as a sacrificial anode. Simply put, the magnesium will rust instead of your car.
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Old 07-01-2007, 03:30 PM   #15
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Does anyone screw galvanized bolts/washers into holes in the body work for use as anodes?
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Old 07-02-2007, 05:21 AM   #16
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Those last two suggestions are very interesting. I seem to remember someone trying to sell that as a undercoating solution a number of years ago, but can't seem to find what I'm looking for on El' Google. Don't recall that it went over too well.....
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Old 07-02-2007, 07:01 PM   #17
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i used RUST BULLET on part of my car, it's been on a year now and no rust has come back, though the finish doesnt look too great since i used the brush they provided. I didnt repaint it either, it looks like galvanized metal in color.
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Old 07-13-2007, 05:08 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lca13 View Post
Come on, let's go all the way.... cosmoline!

Also, I found that moving my cars from MN to CA did wonders for my rust problems :-)

A friend bought a Panhard PL17 Cabriolet that was covered with that stuff, a monster to remove, but it did preserve the car while in storage for over 20 years!
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Old 07-13-2007, 05:30 PM   #19
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3m makes a good can undercoating. the weight of your car can go up if you over use it, this is why new cars only have it sprayed on certain spots like welds or seams to save weight for Fe. if you spray it on the frame be careful when jacking/ putting it up on the lift, even though its dry the weight of the car on the jack might make it slip right off the frame( it turns into mush when putting pressure on the undercoating). its not like a truck bed liner where moisture can get behind and cause rust, it seals water/air from the area and is thick so no stones can chip it easily. but I do like the idea of just using oil, I've seen a few cars with the oil everywhere with the dirt coating but dust/dirt can trap moisture too. what a mess to work on . I've also used the 3m to seal my chimney on the roof of the house
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Old 07-13-2007, 05:32 PM   #20
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Those last two suggestions are very interesting. I seem to remember someone trying to sell that as a undercoating solution a number of years ago, but can't seem to find what I'm looking for on El' Google. Don't recall that it went over too well.....
Rusty Jones rust protection?? where they drill small holes in your doors, spray undercoating inside then a few years after they rust like crazy at the small holes they drilled through.
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