Oil Filter Testing

[theholycow]

Ah. Well, if they made the same change to the ST3675 then maybe it's good that I got a K&N HP-2006 for free with my oil this time. To be honest I can't say I understand why the plastic valve is inferior. From your link, "It's not at all like the hard plastic valve used in the Fram filters." and "I think it still may be better than the Fram filters.".

[add|ct]

I still think its all about what application you are going for in regards to filter, and drain interval dictates that more than anything, IMO. Some Fram filters are solid still, yet a lot are garbage compared to the other products on the market.

...but if you are talking 3k mile changes it really doesn't matter THAT much. For that interval, its more of buying protection in your mind than actual risk of harm. Now, I wouldn't trust a fram at 5k unless it was a particular one that was known to do a really good job. Yet, the worry would cause me to invest slightly more in a better filter. Since, of course, $2-3 dollars spread out over an extra 1k-2k miles is more or less breaking even.

[Jim T.]

Originally Posted by bowtieguy

ABSOTIVELY!!! i'd rather buy valvoline max life, which is not a bad product. i use amsoil signature series. it has a 35k interval . obviously that is in ideal conditions--severe service dictates 17.5k miles. i change it once per year(10-12k miles), and the filter again half way(6months).

you doing fine tho. when you first switch to synthetic, it's a good idea to do a short first interval because of the cleansing attributes of this type of oil.

some say the product is not worth the price. i say i pay less than conventional oil users if you calculate the many more changes accounting for the price of more oil and filters, plus time. time is money!

I have run Wallyworld brand 5W30 in both the Contour and now the Mazda almost exclusivly and do an analysis about every second or third change.
I have run it as far as 9.4k and it still had protection left according to Blackstone.
I also try to buy good filters though.

Jim

[trollbait]

Cutting open an oil filter and just looking at it isn't going to tell you much, if anything, about how well it will perform. Your eyeball can't tell how a material will hold up to hot motor oil under pressure. The only thing I've ever found useful out of the practice in the area of the filter media.

As for Fram, have they ever had a major recall, loss a class action suit, or something that would result from them selling and under spec, poor quality product? I've heard the stories of their filters failing for an individual, but product failure is a possibility for everything. Perhaps other filters are over-engineered for the application.
I don't use Fram, because the Supertech and Motorcraft filters for the Sable are cheaper at Wal-mart, and I haven't found a Fram for the Ecotec.

[add|ct]

Okay, all things being equal. If you didn't high rev your engine much; at least not when you didn't need to, wouldn't filtration be valued over flow rate for FE?

That way you aren't going to see noticeable differences in oil pressure if you aren't 'calling' for it, right? Aside from the filter potentially getting clogged, what other time would an increase in oil pressure occur while driving aside from high revving?

So, as varied as 'results' can be be or blown out of proportion could you say:
Its better to have efficiently filtered oil(allowing for less resistance/wear in your engine when compared to 'less' efficiently filtered oil), allow for better FE gains?

If all things are equal(engine and oil selected) when comparing filters in rated filtration vs flow rate...

Just wondering.

ADDED: For instance, in his test I actually do use the 1334 Napa Gold. Regardless of how it compared to the 'other' filters that weren't for my application, it was better in filtration compared to the 'higher flow' stock Honda/OEM filter for my VX. I get better filtration with the Napa Gold at the sacrifice of some flow rate. The gold still scored middle towards higher end of the road in either scenario. The stock filter on my car would allow for more engine wear, but the advantage of the stock is the higher flow ensures oil pressure all of the time since its a high rev engine(needing to hold up to oil pressure increases). Since I'm not racing or high revving much compared to a normal lead foot in the same car, I want more filtration even though flow rate is not as high. In either case, the Napa Gold/Wix was showing to be solid in rate and filtration in comparison to the other filters that were considered more or less 'interchangeable' for my car.

Lastly, I can vouch for the claims that these filters go on sale. I got like a 40% off deal when I first bought the 1334 Napa Gold filter locally. Little did I realize I should have stocked up then. Its about $7.29 ish year round otherwise. Not high end pricing nor low end. If its on sale down around $4 each its worth it every time over stock in MY application(car/engine/demands etc).

[bowtieguy]

more thoughts leading to more questions...http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums...&Number=334502

[trollbait]

Originally Posted by add|ct

Okay, all things being equal. If you didn't high rev your engine much; at least not when you didn't need to, wouldn't filtration be valued over flow rate for FE?

That way you aren't going to see noticeable differences in oil pressure if you aren't 'calling' for it, right? Aside from the filter potentially getting clogged, what other time would an increase in oil pressure occur while driving aside from high revving?

So, as varied as 'results' can be be or blown out of proportion could you say:
Its better to have efficiently filtered oil(allowing for less resistance/wear in your engine when compared to 'less' efficiently filtered oil), allow for better FE gains?

If all things are equal(engine and oil selected) when comparing filters in rated filtration vs flow rate...

Just wondering.

ADDED: For instance, in his test I actually do use the 1334 Napa Gold. Regardless of how it compared to the 'other' filters that weren't for my application, it was better in filtration compared to the 'higher flow' stock Honda/OEM filter for my VX. I get better filtration with the Napa Gold at the sacrifice of some flow rate. The gold still scored middle towards higher end of the road in either scenario. The stock filter on my car would allow for more engine wear, but the advantage of the stock is the higher flow ensures oil pressure all of the time since its a high rev engine(needing to hold up to oil pressure increases). Since I'm not racing or high revving much compared to a normal lead foot in the same car, I want more filtration even though flow rate is not as high. In either case, the Napa Gold/Wix was showing to be solid in rate and filtration in comparison to the other filters that were considered more or less 'interchangeable' for my car.

Lastly, I can vouch for the claims that these filters go on sale. I got like a 40% off deal when I first bought the 1334 Napa Gold filter locally. Little did I realize I should have stocked up then. Its about $7.29 ish year round otherwise. Not high end pricing nor low end. If its on sale down around $4 each its worth it every time over stock in MY application(car/engine/demands etc).

The flip side of better filtration, assuming that means finer particle size, is that it'll clog up faster. Letting small particles that fit through the engine clearances might be better when an extended change interval than having the oil go through the bypass valve before the change time comes up.

[Project84]

FWIW I've been using Fram Filters for 8 years.

Never had a problem.

Used them in Camaro Z28's, a Subaru, DSM's, Saturns, a Grand Prix, a VW, etc.


I stick to anywhere from 5-7k mile intervals, all have been on dino oil except the Z28's.

[add|ct]

Originally Posted by trollbait

The flip side of better filtration, assuming that means finer particle size, is that it'll clog up faster. Letting small particles that fit through the engine clearances might be better when an extended change interval than having the oil go through the bypass valve before the change time comes up.

Well, in my case, that's why the Wix/NG 1334 is a bigger filter than the one's with higher flow rate. It has more media to filter with. I may know different once in the future if I go to a long OCI, using either an Amsoil or Mobil1.

Personally, I could still see myself using 2 Napa Gold's in the span of the interval and topping off the oil. Yet, at some point, using more oil to top off after "saving" money in the way of oil filter selection, its really only saving compared to the Amsoil. Mobil1 would still be the way to go if it was about avoiding paying for the Amsoil filter. Which, I haven't seen someone compare yet in those 'tests' from BITOG.

[GasSavers_JoeBob]

In my '79 Chevette, (bought at 80k, sold at 260k still running), I used any cheap oil filter I could find. In my '85 Lincoln (bought at 134k, junked at 410k) I used whatever filter was on sale (usually Fram or a store brand). Same with my Geo (bought at 151k, now at 228k, doing fine). Same with all my other cars through the years. I see lots of various claims and counter claims for oil filters, my experience has been that pretty much they all perform adequately, if you change oil regularly and change the filter each oil change. Just my two Indian Head pennies' worth.