Loud Valves, or just Old

[rh77]

Originally Posted by theclencher

I thought they all had hydraulic lifters.

Mechanical lifters are the norm on Hondas these days. I was surprised that my first Civic required valve adjustment -- never heard of such a thing. After they seat, they recommend adjustment if they become "noisy", per the manual, on the newer models.

As far as IATs go, I've been running relatively stock air of between 50-100F, so detonation probably isn't an issue.

After the car came back from the body shop, the PCV catch valve was upside-down (they probably messed with it -- darnit), so all that gunk was sucked back into the engine. Perhaps time for Seafoam or Auto-Rx?

I did a full-RPM run-up today to see if there were any misses or abnormalities, and the only thing I noticed was a big increase in power. It really took off. Then again, I haven't really "ran-it" for a few months for FE.

...and FE is up.

Timing advance may be a issue to consider. I'll take a look at the SG's timing numbers tomorrow (if that will show anything). Since the stereo's not working right now, I can really hear the engine all the time during my commute. Climbing a hill sounds like an old Mercedes Diesel (no smoke, thank goodness).

Anyways, I'll add valve adjustment to the list of maintenance items

RH77

[omgwtfbyobbq]

Interference engines tend to have solid lifters, right?

[omgwtfbyobbq]

Yesh, I think you're right. It's just that interference engines breather better, so manufacturers that want to see good mileage by using small displacement but don't want to get beat out in the hp wars use 'em to boost output.

[rh77]

Originally Posted by omgwtfbyobbq

Yesh, I think you're right. It's just that interference engines breather better, so manufacturers that want to see good mileage by using small displacement but don't want to get beat out in the hp wars use 'em to boost output.

That's the problem, the engine can really crank out some power from 4000-6750 RPM (even with the automatic) -- so, with that ability, FE has to take a hit down low as well.

I asked my wife (the original owner) and she states that the valves have never been adjusted, just routine maintenance. So...once the valves are back into spec, is it reasonable to assume a change in FE (please say for the better ).

I'm getting bolder with doing my own repairs, so I usually like to ask what I'm getting into here. Gary did an excellent job of explaining the process, which is nearly identical to the shop manual.

I suppose that a new valve cover gasket and proper torque/sequence of replacing the cover bolts is expected. Otherwise it sounds straightforward to rotate the crank around and get the valves lined-up for adjustment. The oil needs changed anyway, so I assume that would probably be required as well, for good procedure.

Is this on par with say, replacing a brake caliper assembly, but perhaps more time consuming with the time taken on each valve???

Thanks again...

-RH77

[GasSavers_scostanz]

It's a simple process, the hard part is getting just the right "feel" with the feeler gauge. You'll find you can get the correct feel during the adjustment but it changes as you tighten the adjustment lock nut. You'll have to anticipate that change during the adjustment so that when the lock nut is tightened, the gap is correct. This will make more sense when you do it. Not sure of your specific engine but my Civic requires that the engine be cold before doing the valves. I usually do my adjustments on Saturday or Sunday morning before starting the car.

-- Scott

[rh77]

Originally Posted by scostanz

It's a simple process, the hard part is getting just the right "feel" with the feeler gauge. You'll find you can get the correct feel during the adjustment but it changes as you tighten the adjustment lock nut. You'll have to anticipate that change during the adjustment so that when the lock nut is tightened, the gap is correct. This will make more sense when you do it. Not sure of your specific engine but my Civic requires that the engine be cold before doing the valves. I usually do my adjustments on Saturday or Sunday morning before starting the car.

-- Scott

Makes sense -- tightening the lock nut moves the adjustment nut in tandem and leaves it tighter than expected. Also good to know about the engine being cold.

RH77

[GasSavers_scostanz]

You're supposed to hold the adjustment screw with your screwdriver while you tighten the lock nut but the adjustment will still change. Not a huge deal but part of the procedure needed to get it done correctly.

-- Scott

[cfg83]

omgwtfbyobbq -

Originally Posted by omgwtfbyobbq

Yesh, I think you're right. It's just that interference engines breather better, so manufacturers that want to see good mileage by using small displacement but don't want to get beat out in the hp wars use 'em to boost output.

That must be one reason that Saturns like mine have metal timing chains instead of timing belts. The designers wanted these benefits, but didn't want to take the chance of having a timing belt failure that leads to destroyed engines. That was always a "feature" they would advertise, but it sounds almost necessary with an interference engine.

CarloSW2

[rh77]

Originally Posted by cfg83

That must be one reason that Saturns like mine have metal timing chains instead of timing belts. The designers wanted these benefits, but didn't want to take the chance of having a timing belt failure that leads to destroyed engines. That was always a "feature" they would advertise, but it sounds almost necessary with an interference engine.
CarloSW2

Chains fail as well, but not to the extent of belts. The Honda interval is around 60-80K, some let it go until 120K if they're lucky (I don't take such chances) -- and always have the water pump replaced with the belt.

I had a timing chain fail on a '77 Olds with 80K miles. Granted it was 16 years old at the time, but it broke. 350 V-8: Not an interference engine

RH77

[SVOboy]

Wasn't it larry's chain breaking that totalled his old saturn?