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Old 06-28-2006, 04:14 PM   #11
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If you're willing to work on it, absolutely.
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Old 06-28-2006, 04:25 PM   #12
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One other recomendation I would make would be to replace the water pump and timing belt, unless you can get pretty solid confirmation that they were done recently. Very inexpensive, high return insurance!
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Old 06-28-2006, 07:37 PM   #13
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One other recomendation I would make would be to replace the water pump and timing belt, unless you can get pretty solid confirmation that they were done recently. Very inexpensive, high return insurance!
Excellent advice. I just replaced mine on the new engine so at least I know when it was replaced last.
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Old 06-28-2006, 09:40 PM   #14
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my honda has 217k on the clock and runs like a champ taking abuse daily. granted i replaced the suspension and motor....

take the advice of what everyone else is saying. ensure a recent timing belt/water pump change and test the normal things: brakes, shocks, tranny, a/c for your area. you know the normal stuff. miles doesnt do much, its all about how it runs and the potential expenses you might recieve for maintenance.
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Old 06-29-2006, 02:11 AM   #15
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But the real question is this:

Did the 286 have a math co-processor? :P
It was the 40 mHz DX. I think the DX had a coprocessor and the SX didn't or was it the other way around? OS was Windows 3.1.
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Old 06-29-2006, 03:24 AM   #16
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basically I'm either going to pick up a 99 or a 00 civic 5 speed manual dx. This month I'm overwhelmed with bills so I'm looking forward before Dec. of this year.
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Old 06-29-2006, 09:38 AM   #17
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It was the 40 mHz DX. I think the DX had a coprocessor and the SX didn't or was it the other way around? OS was Windows 3.1.
You're right. The DX has a math co-processor. Our first computer was a 386 SX 33Mhz. I later bought a 386 SX 16Mhz for myself so that I could run my BBS on it.
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Old 06-29-2006, 10:07 AM   #18
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Compaq: I have a couple of thought's for you to consider.

If your planning on going to College, then unless you have a supplier, you are going to need to be extrordinarily fruggal. That being the case, instead of buying what you "want", why don't you buy something that will get the job done, as inexpensively as possible. You could get a 89-91 Honda, put $1000 into fixing critical things like brakes, water pumps and so forth and end up with a very practical, functional car to use while your going to school.

I have about $1500 into my 89 wagon, it get's pretty good mileage, it's dependable and functional.

You could do something like that and put the rest of your money in the bank, for your emergency repair fund and you'd have something you could drive until your finished with school and more gainfully employeed.

That would be a lot better use of your resources, in my perspective.

p.s. I had a 70 Ford Custom (really a cheapy Galaxy), I paid $200 for, drove for 2 year's and sold for $300. It was ugly, it had a severly bent rear axle, the passengers side was all dented-broadside, I used garden green spray paint on all of the rust spots, about every 2 month's, but it got me to where I needed to go, to work and to go to school. Oh, the front seat had a heavy foam cushion, so that I didn't sit on the floor, the radiator had a crack on one of the tanks, so I had to put in a can of Pepper about once a month, but it worked. Food for thought
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Old 06-29-2006, 10:14 AM   #19
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If your planning on going to College, then unless you have a supplier, you are going to need to be extrordinarily fruggal. That being the case, instead of buying what you "want", why don't you buy something that will get the job done, as inexpensively as possible. You could get a 89-91 Honda, put $1000 into fixing critical things like brakes, water pumps and so forth and end up with a very practical, functional car to use while your going to school.
More excellent advice. When I was going to college I had a $300/mo car payment, $150/mo insurance, $865/mo rent, and only around 25mpg.

If I could do it over I would have gotten roommates, a cheap $600 car (Toyota, Honda, etc.) and not worked full time.

But then again Compaq only seems to want a brand new (or almost new) car. If you're really afraid of something breaking, consider that the cost of an older car plus repairs will still be cheaper than getting a car made in 2000.

Hell, you could buy an older civic and get a NEW (less than 60k) engine put in it for around $1000, if not less. If I lived closer I'd do it for you for less than that.
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Old 06-29-2006, 12:00 PM   #20
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If you want cheap and reliable, look for an ancient Volvo! I prefer working on those because there's so much room around the engine you can just crawl in there with it. Safe as hell, too, considering that I'm talking about cars that were designed right about the time I was born. And in SoCal you could definitely find one without rust. The transmission of choice is a 4-speed manual that has an electrically operated overdrive (no kidding...you clutch and push a button to engage fifth) followed by the true 5-speed manual. Mine was a 85 740 wagon with the naturally aspirated four cylinder and the funky manual, and it was good for 28-30mpg on the highway in the hands of a moronic 17 year old. Come on, you know you want one
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