Quote:
Originally Posted by MetroMPG
i always just add it to the radiator. if the radiator is full because the air pocket is on the other side of the thermostat, i run the engine with the rad cap removed until the thermostat just opens (you can see the coolant start to move in the rad). usually the radiator level will drop then and you can add what you need to replace. (but don't wait for things to get HOT - the coolant will start to spill out.)
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I agree -- any interruption in the coolant loop may require an air bleed. When I installed the block heater, I lost more than 3/4 of the coolant and couldn't find the bleed-off valve as mentioned in the instruction kit. So the rad was half-full and reserve tank was full, but the block jacket was empty after hooking everything up. I was nervous that I was going to crack the block or some crazy stuff, but I ended up getting some advice from a friend who knows engine repair, and he said to warm up the car, shut it down, and bleed the system through the rad cap CAREFULLY (I wore protective clothing in the process: gloves, long-sleeved shirt, etc - steam burns more than liquid) -- then repeat the process until coolant only is released. It felt like there was a lot of heat coming off of the engine and thought the gauge wasn't accurately representing it, but it worked out. Then the cleanup began...