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06-09-2006, 04:58 AM
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#61
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Moderator
Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 1,209
Country: United States
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thisisntjared
removing the radiator yes
master cylinder no, waaaay too annoying.
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My thoughts exactly. I've never had a problem with the MC, and wouldn't dare remove it unless absolutely necessary. Bench bleeding sucks.
Congrats on your first (i think) engine pull! Isn't it exhillarating?!
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06-09-2006, 08:11 AM
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#62
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Registered Member
Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 201
Country: United States
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Question: If the old motor is obd0 and the new is obd1, will the accessory items even swap over (alternator, etc) w/o modding it? Mak
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'85 CRX Si Original EW3 @ 254k...suck it Detroit
'89 CRX HF-Z1 ~ When haste is needed
'97 Civic DX Hatch ~ Formerly 600hp, now 0hp, soon 115hp.
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06-09-2006, 08:47 AM
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#63
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Registered Member
Join Date: Jun 2006
Posts: 259
Country: United States
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MakDiesel
Question: If the old motor is obd0 and the new is obd1, will the accessory items even swap over (alternator, etc) w/o modding it? Mak
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I think so. Take a look on Honda-tech.com the have tons of info on engine swaps.
I wish I had a HF......
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06-09-2006, 08:48 AM
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#64
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Driving on E
Join Date: Sep 2005
Posts: 3,110
Country: United States
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MakDiesel
Question: If the old motor is obd0 and the new is obd1, will the accessory items even swap over (alternator, etc) w/o modding it? Mak
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They will swap without a problem. Honda was either brilliant and really cheap in their decision to make everything compatible for a large number of years.
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06-09-2006, 08:55 AM
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#65
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Registered Member
Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 675
Country: United States
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Matt:
In thinking about it, I have a observation/suggestion. When you pulled the motor, I think that one reason you may have had it tight is that you pulled it straight up, it look's like, from your picture's. What I would suggest when you put it back in is to use the balance bar to set it so the transmission is hanging down, to the left, and the front of the motor is hanging up and to the right. Then you just bring it down into the engine bay and using the balance beam, bring the center of gravity back towards the middle, so that the front of the engine swing's down and in and the transmission come's up and in. Hope maybe that will help some.
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06-09-2006, 09:02 AM
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#66
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Driving on E
Join Date: Sep 2005
Posts: 3,110
Country: United States
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gary Palmer
Matt:
In thinking about it, I have a observation/suggestion. When you pulled the motor, I think that one reason you may have had it tight is that you pulled it straight up, it look's like, from your picture's. What I would suggest when you put it back in is to use the balance bar to set it so the transmission is hanging down, to the left, and the front of the motor is hanging up and to the right. Then you just bring it down into the engine bay and using the balance beam, bring the center of gravity back towards the middle, so that the front of the engine swing's down and in and the transmission come's up and in. Hope maybe that will help some.
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That was part of the problem. I actually ended up using rope to support the transmission on the left side after a number of unsuccessful lifts. The chain just wasn't long enough to lift it the way I wanted to. I also left the starter on so I couldn't use those bolt holes.
In retrospect I think I should use one of the engine mounts to help with the angle.
Eh, I do believe that putting it in is going to be much easier than taking it now, at least now that I know what I'm doing a little bit better.
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06-09-2006, 09:08 AM
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#67
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Registered Member
Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 675
Country: United States
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Well, to be honest, every time I do something I have to relearn about 50% of what I had just finally figured out, the last time I did it. I only do it when I have to, on my own car's, so I forget a lot in between, except I remember doing that once and I thought I had figured some of that stuff out.
The frustrating/interesting thing is that if you have to do it again, fairly soon, it goe's much quicker. The bad thing for me is that means I am doing something over, because I goofed something up. Ying-Yang
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06-09-2006, 09:22 AM
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#68
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Driving on E
Join Date: Sep 2005
Posts: 3,110
Country: United States
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gary Palmer
Well, to be honest, every time I do something I have to relearn about 50% of what I had just finally figured out, the last time I did it. I only do it when I have to, on my own car's, so I forget a lot in between, except I remember doing that once and I thought I had figured some of that stuff out.
The frustrating/interesting thing is that if you have to do it again, fairly soon, it goe's much quicker. The bad thing for me is that means I am doing something over, because I goofed something up. Ying-Yang
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I really hope that I don't get the engine in and then have to remove it again due to some mistake I made.
I usually go to the junkyards to practice part removal. I can totally screw up and it only cost the the $2 admission.
Today's plans include: Wiring. It's been raining cats and dogs here for the past few hours, so I'm waiting for the sun to come out before I tackle reinsertion of the new engine. I also have to transfer the components over to the new engine.
I just purchased a butane powered soldering iron which will get really hot and be totally portable. I think it's going to be better than my cheap electric soldering iron. AND i can keep it in my car for any emergencies I encounter.
Here is the question for the day. The new engine has say here with no oil for months now. Am I going to damage it when I put the engine into the car, put oil in, and start it up? Is there something I can do beforehand that will prevent potential damage?
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06-09-2006, 09:33 AM
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#69
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Registered Member
Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 675
Country: United States
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Matt: I don't think their is much you can do, on the Honda, besides make sure you have fresh oil and start it up. I don't think that you can get the pump to pull enough, by turning it over by hand, to get much oil into the system. With the pump on the front of the crankshaft, I don't think their is much else you can do.
You can pull the oil pressure sensor and try to put some oil under pressure in through their, but I can't think of a good way to do that.
I've had several engine's that had been sitting for a good time and then I woke them back up and overall I didn't do anything special.
Thought: One thing you can do is to put some oil into your cylinder's through the spark plug holes, before you start it up, and then turn the engine over by the crank bolt. That would at least get some fresh oil on the cylinder walls. The only problem you will have is that it will spit oil/smoke out the exhaust for the first 5 minutes or so after you first start it.
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06-09-2006, 12:29 PM
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#70
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*shrug*
Join Date: Sep 2005
Posts: 6,195
Country: United States
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Matt, I don't have anything constructive to say, but if you haven't gone to the junkyard yet, I need a shift boot and the thing to attach it to the center console,
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