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07-04-2006, 11:27 AM
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#231
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Registered Member
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 311
Country: United States
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Its really hard to tell if VTEC enguages on those motors, its really pretty seemless. The only way I can tell is to see where to power falls off... if it seems like it wants to rev past 4.5K, then VTEC is working... if it starts falling on its face above there, then no go. With VTEC it has the power to "pull" to 6K.
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Anger is a gift!- Zack de la Rocha
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07-04-2006, 01:25 PM
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#232
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Driving on E
Join Date: Sep 2005
Posts: 3,110
Country: United States
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bunger
Its really hard to tell if VTEC enguages on those motors, its really pretty seemless. The only way I can tell is to see where to power falls off... if it seems like it wants to rev past 4.5K, then VTEC is working... if it starts falling on its face above there, then no go. With VTEC it has the power to "pull" to 6K.
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Yeah, I think it's probably fine then. I might hook up a vtec light after everything is done so I can know exactly when it's engaged.
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07-04-2006, 01:26 PM
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#233
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*shrug*
Join Date: Sep 2005
Posts: 6,195
Country: United States
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Vtec light, haha, *sigh*
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07-04-2006, 01:28 PM
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#234
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Driving on E
Join Date: Sep 2005
Posts: 3,110
Country: United States
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SVOboy
Vtec light, haha, *sigh*
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uhm, wtf?
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07-04-2006, 01:32 PM
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#235
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*shrug*
Join Date: Sep 2005
Posts: 6,195
Country: United States
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Sorry, just teasing, I've seen a few people get really excited over vtec lights and it just reminded me of such occurences.
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07-04-2006, 11:29 PM
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#236
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Registered Member
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 1,480
Country: United States
Location: Myrtle Beach, SC
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In my short experience with a Z1, I came away with a different feeling about when vtec engaged. My buttometer tells me that it isnt dependant on rpm, rather on engine vacuum. I will splain in my KMA, KBA thread.
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07-05-2006, 10:14 AM
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#237
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Registered Member
Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 201
Country: United States
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You may kill two birds w/ the t-stat problem. If the t-stat isn't opening properly, the hot coolant may not be reaching the thermosensor at the bottom of the rad that activates the fan. This happened to my '85 CRX a few weeks ago. The car would run hot, but the fan still would not come on. The bottom hose was always cold vs. the scalding hot top hose, due to a faulty t-stat. If the coolant won't reach the thermosensor, the fan doesn't receive the signal to activate. This may not be your problem, but it's the place to start, and sounds convincingly like my car's symptoms.
PS -- Do you have that grocery list of bits to complete a VX swap? I made sure not to buy anything else until you told me what to get. Someone should sticky the list so later Z1 swappers won't have to hassle you for info like I do I finally sourced a VX parts car 70 mi from my house that I may get everything I need from minus a converted harness and Helms manual. Thanks again and congratulations! Mak
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'85 CRX Si Original EW3 @ 254k...suck it Detroit
'89 CRX HF-Z1 ~ When haste is needed
'97 Civic DX Hatch ~ Formerly 600hp, now 0hp, soon 115hp.
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07-05-2006, 10:22 AM
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#238
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Driving on E
Join Date: Sep 2005
Posts: 3,110
Country: United States
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Mak,
I posted on your thread a while ago with what you'll need. I'll make a new post for future reference though.
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07-06-2006, 09:56 AM
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#239
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Registered Member
Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 201
Country: United States
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Thanks again. I didn't see the first post list but I found the new thread. Mak
__________________
'85 CRX Si Original EW3 @ 254k...suck it Detroit
'89 CRX HF-Z1 ~ When haste is needed
'97 Civic DX Hatch ~ Formerly 600hp, now 0hp, soon 115hp.
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07-20-2006, 12:25 PM
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#240
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Registered Member
Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 270
Country: United States
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if anyone is interested i know of a complete d15z1 swap for $100 here in ohio
just listed today
110k on motor ... 1 owner grandpa driven
grandsons new car got an engine swap
bonus for a gas saver...maybe me
peace
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