D15Z1 Engine swap project log

[Gary Palmer]

Matt: The question SVOboy asked is probably the first one you need to give us some information on. What you said sounded like the starter turns over but the motor is not. Is that correct?

[Matt Timion]

Originally Posted by DaX

Ah...the woes and desperation has hit. Don't let it get you down Matt...it's a few simple goblins, and with a straight head, you'll chase them down and be glad you did.

First - starter turning but engine not turning...explain this please? Does it sound like it does when you hit the starter when the engine is running? Are you using an odd combination of starter and tranny?

Remember it takes fuel, spark, air, compression, and timing to have an engine run. Systematically check each one of these and you'll find your goblin.

Sorry for being vague. As I mentioned to SVOBoy and Jared last night, I'm pretty certain the engine is "cranking," or that the crankshalf is turning. I'm certain of this because I can see the engine vibrating when I start it.

You know, that initial violent vibration when the engine starts?

I also know the engine isnt' seized because I was able to manually turn the crankshaft a few days ago.

Things to check today:

• Remove axle and fix seal. stupid seal.
• clutch cable - make sure it's tightened all of the way
• distributor - I have never actually opened it, so it's possible it's busted. Good thing I have a spare.
• Spark Plugs - I still have the spark plugs from Japan in the engine. Mad JDM Spark Plugs Yo!!
• Timing - I've never adjusted timing before. Ever. Hopefully that's a last resort.

[Gary Palmer]

From what I've read, for OBD1 you don't need the resistor box. I haven't done this swap, though, so I'd take that with a grain of salt.

One thing you can try for a quick test, is to spray some starter fluid or carb cleaner in the throttle body and try to start the car. If it cough's and spit's, then you will know you at least have spark.

When you were working on the engine, did you fool with the timing? The description you had for the motor doing a ugh, sounded like the timing might be off, also.

[Gary Palmer]

Timing isn't that difficult. It's mostly a issue of being methodical, in the right sequence. I don't think the clutch cable has anything to do with it not starting. The clutch switch interferes with the starter turning over and your starter is turning over, so I don't think that's the issue.

[Matt Timion]

Originally Posted by Gary Palmer

From what I've read, for OBD1 you don't need the resistor box. I haven't done this swap, though, so I'd take that with a grain of salt.

One thing you can try for a quick test, is to spray some starter fluid or carb cleaner in the throttle body and try to start the car. If it cough's and spit's, then you will know you at least have spark.

When you were working on the engine, did you fool with the timing? The description you had for the motor doing a ugh, sounded like the timing might be off, also.

You're right. no resistor box. I went straight to obd1 so i never installed one.
I guess if it's timing it could be easy to fix. I've never messed with the timing on this car, but the distributor was "loose" when I received the engine. I tightened the bolt last night, but as far as I know it's in the wrong place.

I will remove the distributor cap today to ensure that all of the internals are actually there.

[Matt Timion]

Originally Posted by Gary Palmer

Timing isn't that difficult. It's mostly a issue of being methodical, in the right sequence. I don't think the clutch cable has anything to do with it not starting. The clutch switch interferes with the starter turning over and your starter is turning over, so I don't think that's the issue.

Unless my transmission is actually in gear, which it probably is. I havn't hooked up the shift linkage yet. If the clutch cable isn't engaging the clutch then it is not going to really be able to start because it isn't in nuetral.

So add getting the shift linkage put back together to the list.

[Gary Palmer]

Don't forget to put the coolant plug in and put distelled water & antifreeze in the radiator. I did a valve guide seals job on a Mercury Capri, where I forgot to put in the coolant. I also drove it about 5 miles, before I figured out what I'd done. I let it cool off and filled it, and it seemed to be Ok, but I lost the head gasket about 20,000 miles later. I think the head gasket probably was "over-extended" a bit, at best.

On the axle seal, I've started replacing all of those types of seals anytime I'm in that far, just because a new one isn't much money, but getting it apart far enough is a real pain.

On your ball joints, if you have a large sledge hammer, you can whack the side of the ball joint, several times, really hard and they just pop apart. Doesn't hurt the joint any, it just causes it to flex enough to pop loose.

[Matt Timion]

Originally Posted by Gary Palmer

On the axle seal, I've started replacing all of those types of seals anytime I'm in that far, just because a new one isn't much money, but getting it apart far enough is a real pain.

Heh... this IS a new seal. I think it's just not in all of the way.

[Gary Palmer]

Matt: You have a manual transmission. They don't care whether it's in neutral, reverse or whatever. They just care if the clutch is pushed in.

On the distributor, if you just tightened it down, that is very likely the problem. You just need to take the cover off, put the engine to #1 on the timing mark on the crankshaft, put the distributor so that it is pointing to the #1 wire and use that as a starting point. It will not actually be exactly right, but it should be close enough to get it started. From their you'll need a timing light.

[Matt Timion]

Originally Posted by Gary Palmer

Matt: You have a manual transmission. They don't care whether it's in neutral, reverse or whatever. They just care if the clutch is pushed in.

That is my point.

If the clutch cable isn't tight enought the clutch won't be "pushed in" on the transmission.