D15Z1 Engine swap project log

[Matt Timion]

Originally Posted by DaX

I would recommend filling at the VSS...MUCH easier. Remove the VSS bolt, then get some small channel locks and GENTLY grab the VSS at the base and twist. It should break loose.

The problem of course, is that there is next to zero room to do anything back there on the VSS. I have wires, vacuum hoses, an intake manifold, and an engine mount in my way.

Bunger recommended getting a set of needle nose vice grips, putting them IN the VSS, and then twisting and pulling at the same time.

It's been soaking in pb blaster all night, so hopefully it's just really loose now.

[Gary Palmer]

Matt: If that doesn't work, just fill it through one of the half shaft holes. If you fill it till it's up to the edge of the seals, it will have plenty of oil and you'll be good to go.

Generally, if you get a bolt that is really rusted, you can use a Propane maxx torch, to heat the bolt red hot, at which point you can back it out. Generally this is more necessary on things like the exhaust manifold and places like that, but it might be a alternative consideration

[bagpipe goatee]

good luck on the fill hole. i'll tell you what it took me to get it off on my crx:

we tried everything, but stripped the bolt a bit. using a torch, it came right off, though.

i'd suggest trying crow's feet. they're flat things that wrap around like a line wrench but have a hole in them for the socket.

after that i always break that bolt free out of the car. lesson learned.



even my haynes manual tells you that it can be a pain to remove that bolt.

[Matt Timion]

I would generally like to NOT use a torch if possible. As you honda guys know there is almost no room for anything down there, so I'd probably ruin an axle or set my wiring harness on fire.

I will be buying a new set of six point wrenches today so that I can use it on this bolt. I'm also hoping that the VSS might come out now.

Worst case scenario will result in my filling up using the reverse light plug hole.

[Gary Palmer]

I agree with you. I wouldn't use the torch, unless you can't get it with the 6 point's and you can't fill it some other way. I just included the torch, for a last resort. If it was exhaust or something like that, then I'd use the torch, no question.

[Matt Timion]

ARGH!

So I filled the transmission using the reverse light switch. I put new oil in the engine. I then noticed the transmission was leaking on the drivers side.

"Going to have to pull the axle and fix that seal it looks like, but for now I need to try to get this car started," I thought to myself.

I put coolant in the radiator.

"what's that noise?" Crap, it's the drain bolt and it's missing. i took it off when I drained the coolant and I have NO idea where it is.

"Screw it, I'll start it without coolant," I insisted. I have heard that you can run an engine for a while without coolant and have no problems.

I connect the battery, ensure all of the hoses are tight.

Put the key in.

The starter turns. The engine does not turn. Every so often I hear a grunting noise coming from the engine, which REALLY sucks on the battery when it happens.

I connect the wire to check CEL codes. Code 16 shows up, which is the fuel injector code. I then realize that the intake manifold/throttle body is covered up with tape. I remove the tape. I try to start a few more times and I cannot get the code to reappear.

I also can't get the car to start.


I have no Check Engine Lights. I do have fuel pressure. Unsure if I have spark or not as I don't have a spark plug socket. Will get one tomorrow.

It could also be the clutch. Maybe I need to tighten the clutch cable more.

It's very sad. The thought crossed my mind a few times to scrap it and get a VX, but what fun would that be?

[GasSavers_DaX]

Originally Posted by Matt Timion

ARGH!

So I filled the transmission using the reverse light switch. I put new oil in the engine. I then noticed the transmission was leaking on the drivers side.

"Going to have to pull the axle and fix that seal it looks like, but for now I need to try to get this car started," I thought to myself.

I put coolant in the radiator.

"what's that noise?" Crap, it's the drain bolt and it's missing. i took it off when I drained the coolant and I have NO idea where it is.

"Screw it, I'll start it without coolant," I insisted. I have heard that you can run an engine for a while without coolant and have no problems.

I connect the battery, ensure all of the hoses are tight.

Put the key in.

The starter turns. The engine does not turn. Every so often I hear a grunting noise coming from the engine, which REALLY sucks on the battery when it happens.

I connect the wire to check CEL codes. Code 16 shows up, which is the fuel injector code. I then realize that the intake manifold/throttle body is covered up with tape. I remove the tape. I try to start a few more times and I cannot get the code to reappear.

I also can't get the car to start.


I have no Check Engine Lights. I do have fuel pressure. Unsure if I have spark or not as I don't have a spark plug socket. Will get one tomorrow.

It could also be the clutch. Maybe I need to tighten the clutch cable more.

It's very sad. The thought crossed my mind a few times to scrap it and get a VX, but what fun would that be?

Ah...the woes and desperation has hit. Don't let it get you down Matt...it's a few simple goblins, and with a straight head, you'll chase them down and be glad you did.

First - starter turning but engine not turning...explain this please? Does it sound like it does when you hit the starter when the engine is running? Are you using an odd combination of starter and tranny?

Remember it takes fuel, spark, air, compression, and timing to have an engine run. Systematically check each one of these and you'll find your goblin.

[SVOboy]

From what I gathered from him online it's cranking but it sounds like it's not getting fuel or spark. Did you get the power for the injectors from the old ones? You're not using the old resistor box, are you?

[MakDiesel]

keep at it! I could have just bought a VX/HX too, but besides the extra cost, I wouldn't be into my first swap and the knowledge I gain (and that you have gained) cannot be replicated elsewhere. Like Dax said, go at the problem systematically...spark, fuel, air, compression, timing...that's it. Make a checklist and go through it. Keep checking CEL's and you'll hear the beast come to life. Good luck! Mak

[Matt Timion]

Originally Posted by SVOboy

From what I gathered from him online it's cranking but it sounds like it's not getting fuel or spark. Did you get the power for the injectors from the old ones? You're not using the old resistor box, are you?

Wiring is correct on the injectors. I checked them with a multi-meter. I never had an injector resistor box.