Civic engine mounts, operation/function?

[add|ct]

So, I'm having some issues with the VX. I don't know if it's been this way since day one or what, but it has me thinking about replacing my engine mounts. That said, I heard a couple of guys suggest that I use window weld(?) to patch the existing mounts, let them cure out for a couple of days and then re-install.

My question is how should my mount function, any movement at all? Symptoms of a bad engine mount while driving?

Shifting while driving generates a 'rocking' sensation, okay. How about at idle in neutral? I rev, punch the throttle, and the rear engine mount moves about 1". The side mounts don't 'seem' to move, at least not the top ones. The bottom/sub engine mounts have brittle 'rubber' as it is.

Also, while coming off of the throttle and allowing the car to coast, most of the time this is followed within a moment OR immediately with a 'rocking' sensation. It feels like the engine is rocking/unsettled.

Thoughts or comments appreciated!

[GasSavers_Erik]

Firmly set the e-brake and have someone fake a quick start in 1st and in reverse (pop the clutch out halfway and then instantly push it back in) while you watch the mounts closely- some movement (twist) is normal but if the rubber is torn in half or there is metal to metal contact, then you definitely need a new mount.

[IndyFetch]

^^ What he said. The engine mounts are supposed to give some play, in order to keep driveline vibrations from entering the cabin. They also function as a kind of shock absorber for the driveline, so a bit of play is needed. I would check it out using the method that Erik described. If you hear metal hit metal, or if you notice excessive play, you will need to install one or more new mounts.

I would not recommend repairing and re-installing used mounts. The reason being, the rubber bushings are usually what fails (at least in my experience), not the metal mounting brackets. I would order new ones. I would price check mounts from NAPA/Auto Zone/Rock Auto against the following site : http://www.bkhondaparts.com/

Bill Kay Honda is a honda dealer that sells parts for 30% off. I use them for any parts that I can't find at parts stores of the junkyard.

[theholycow]

Lots of people seem happy with mounts repaired using certain caulks or other similar materials. If you have to remove it to do the job, I can't imagine a new mount costing much more, but if you can repair it in-place then it's probably worth a try.

Here's a few links that were posted in a recent similar thread on another forum:
http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=1124506
http://www.elantragtclub.com/id557.html
http://importnut.net/motormount.htm

[add|ct]

I'll try to do the 'pop clutch' in 1st & Reverse to verify. I can definitely hear want sounds like 'rubbing' with that rocking sensation I was describing.

Also, I have had this 'whirring' sound while on the throttle at cruising speeds mainly. Not sure if this is related, my new tires make a 'louder' sound while I'm driving over newly paved road, if that means anything. I thought maybe the tires or wheel hubs/bearing were making noise, but wouldn't it be all of the time or at least not relative to me accelerating(typically this sound happens 35-65 MPH range, at least that is when most audible). Started happening 1st week of December, had clutch replaced and it still is happening(thought it was the clutch finally going).

Probably unrelated, but that noise is something that has troubled me as well. Fuel economy has been 'meh'...just 'most' trips are all less than 5-10 mile range. Some interstate/highway trips involve 15-20, but most 'start and drive' has been of the less than 10 mile variety, taking 4-5 miles to get warmed up near freezing or below.

[Jakins]

I used window weld, it worked great. It is stiffer than factory but mine vibrates a whole lot. It probly won't be as quite and smooth as before, but you definetly need to either fix yours or buy a new one because bad mounts can cause problems