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Old 03-14-2008, 05:00 AM   #11
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I've been using a process of cleaning up the rust as much as possible using a wire brush etc...removing ALL scale. Chip with a pointed tool. Then use Naval Jelly or similar. Then a coat or 2 of Zero Rust primer.

Then in that area hit by stuff from the tire I've been using the alum/plastic/asphalt-rubber roof material found in a 6" wise roll at home centers. Put this on clean primed metal and it will stick real well...rub it down with a dull tool handle. Then over this a thick coat of plastic roof cement.

Even then you'll probably need to recoat it with roof cement each fall.

With that big hole...you'll probably need to cover it with sheet metal?
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Old 03-14-2008, 07:09 AM   #12
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Originally Posted by Tepco View Post
Looks like your getting there. I would still recomend using a sand blaster to get to the places you cant reach and this is why(snip)
Advice I think I'll heed. I might be able to borrow a portable sandblaster and medium. If that happens, I'll have at it.

I did treat the area with the phosphoric acid. Looks all nice and black and neutralized however I'll treat again after the blasting and that should take care of it (as best as I can, anyway).

Quote:
Originally Posted by ZugyNA
(snip)Even then you'll probably need to recoat it with roof cement each fall.

With that big hole...you'll probably need to cover it with sheet metal?
Interesting idea. I definitely want to re-undercoat the area after it's all buttoned up. Does the roofing cement harden enough to resist impact damage/normal wear-tear? (it sure is sticky enough!) How would this compare to say, the aftermarket spray on goop? Is there something even better that's still affordable?

As far as the hole... Yup-will be rebuilding it. Currently open to wheel well, trunk, and the rest of the world. I'll be making a mock-up out of cardboard and then transferring it to sheet metal. Add in some tabs to bend and use as attachment points to rivet the various pieces together.
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Old 03-25-2008, 05:49 PM   #13
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I'd suggest CPC (Corrosion Prevention Compound) instead of paint/primer if appearance is not important. I tested several brands side-by-side outdoors with weekly salt-spray test. Best ones were Fluid Film (available online and at John Deer dealers) and CRC Marine Heavy Duty CPC (West Marine/Boat US, etc). They come in aerosol form, require minimal prep and will provide at lest 6 months of corrosion protection and probably much longer (I only ran my test for ~6 months so far).

Ross
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Old 04-13-2008, 11:13 AM   #14
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Update

Well, finished it. It a'int pretty but does seem functional. I want to thank all who submitted ideas and recommendations. They were all very helpful.

I ended up removing all the rust via grinder, acid and sandblaster (those $25 Harbor Freight dealies work surprisingly well). Got some blasting media at the local Home Despot (Lowe's out here).

So, continuing on from the previous pic's in this thread, I make a cardboard mockup of the sheet metal parts I was going to make:

[[See attachment "Mockup"]]


I then proceeded to transfer them to an old computer case:

[[See attachment "Template"]]


Cut them out with a hacksaw blade on my reciprocating saw:

[[See attachment "Parts" ]]

and using only a hammer, sheet metal pliers (vise-grip type) and a block of wood, I shaped the parts. I then painted all parts and surfaces with POR-15 and let dry for 5 hours (not quite dry but handleable -allows for good bond on second coat) before riveting parts in place:

[[See attachment "Rebuilt" ]]


Some advice should you try this yourselves:
Pay very close attention to where you need to make your bends. Allow for the change in dimensions that result. Plan ahead where you need tabs for attaching. Drill pilot holes at intersections of bends and cut to the holes-this makes for an easier cut and prevents sharp internal corners that can fatigue and eventually tear. De-burr all edges for same reason as above. Make sure to miss your thumb while shaping parts

Seem to have lost my other pics on further work but basically all I did was to apply the second coat of POR-15 along with adding fiberglass cloth during the second coat. This worked quite well as the POR-15 dries very solidly and the glass cloth covered the seams of the parts; creating a watertight surface. A third coat of paint, some caulk to make sure it was sealed and a coating of spray-on undercoating and this part of the job was done.

I ended up going with the POR-15 paint mostly due to the plethora of online recommendations and partly due to my need to use their glass fiber rich version of bondo which they guaranteed to bond to their paint. Tough stuff!! The other side of my car suffered the same problem as what you see here but the wheel arch was rotted away in one spot, hence my need for some serious filler. This stuff fit the bill and is super strong. You can even drill and tap it.

I have to say, I am now among the choir preaching the power of POR-15. This is serious stuff. I'm sure Rust-Bullet (heard good things) and a couple others are also likely good paints but I'm glad I went with this product. Amazing.

The job was only slightly less horrible than I had imagined it would be (I hate this sort of work!) but it had to be done and all-in-all went reasonably well. So for all of you too intimidated to try this (like I was!) it's not as bad as your imagination will make it out to be. I look at it this way, doing it myself saved me -literally- $3000 (yes, that's three thousand dollars -that's what I was quoted). Worth every hour I spent on it.

Thanks again for everyones input!
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Old 04-14-2008, 08:04 AM   #15
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Not a phish scam

This password requirement from 'Red-Bean' to view my pics is apparently new. I will try to find another host to avoid this issue.

I guess I can only offer my personal assurances that this is not a phish scam. If you enter the word "notabot" (i.e. Not a spam-bot) it uploads the pix, no other info needed.

But like I say, I'll try another route to get the pix embedded.

Sorry about the concerns.

=Tymme
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Old 04-14-2008, 10:41 PM   #16
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Your newest pics didnt work for me and it sounds like you made some excellent progress!

Glad you stuck with it and did it yourself!
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Old 04-15-2008, 10:30 AM   #17
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Your newest pics didnt work for me and it sounds like you made some excellent progress!

Glad you stuck with it and did it yourself!

Thanks! Turned out better than expected.

I've gone back and edited the post in question to use attachments. So hopefully that'll solve all the problems.
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