Hello -
(This Jaycar outfit originates from Australia)
Last year I bought this :
Digital Fuel Mixture Display Kit for Cars
http://www.jaycarelectronics.com/pro...Max=&SUBCATID=
I finally have it online :
Attachment 842
I used a trading card box as the case for the "IMac" C-Thru look.
I got it because I want to be able to monitor the effect of the EFIE I bought :
Electronic Fuel Injection Enhancer (EFIE) Device
http://www.eagle-research.com/store/...products_id=16
Using the gauge already taught me something about my ECU/PCM that I didn't know :
Oxygen Sensor Information
http://www.mr2.com/TEXT/O2_Sensor.html
Quote:
How does an O2 sensor work?
... The mid point is about 0.45 volts. This is neither rich nor lean. A fully warm O2 sensor *will not spend any time at 0.45 volts*. In many cars, the computer sends out a bias voltage of 0.45 through the O2 sensor wire. If the sensor is not warm, or if the circuit is not complete, the computer picks up a steady 0.45 volts. Since the computer knows this is an "illegal" value, it judges the sensor to not be ready. ...[/B]
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This is *exactly* what I am seeing on the digital display when my Saturn starts up. It stays at 14.7 for maybe a minute, and then it starts fluctuating.
This also implies (to me) that I need to keep the EFIE off until the 02 sensor is warmed up, because the bias voltage from the EFIE causes the ECU/PCM to throw codes because it thinks the 0.45 volts + EFIE voltage is "bad" (i.e. the 02 sensor must be bad). This shouldn't be a problem, because when the EFIE is turned off, it just passes the voltage through.
Soldering it wasn't hard, except for one mistake I made. The unit is made of two breadboards. The wire connectors between the breadboards are supposed to be "not flush" to the breadboard. I pushed them all the way in and tried to solder them on the wrong the side
. It was agony fixing it with a de-soldering vacuum tool.
The part I wasn't looking forward to was calibrating it. I finally got it done, but it was a Multimeter PITA.
CarloSW2
Threaded Mode
