'85 CRX Si DD won't run longer than 2 seconds, need help on what to test...

[benfrogg]

I picked mine up for $30 at carquest. It is heavy duty, works for most common sizes, and I think it came with a handful of fittings too.
I'll look for the brand when I go out to the garage later today. Prices varied widely, some where $100.

It is my understanding that aside from some differences in fittings, steel fuel lines and steel brake lines are the same animal- or at least they are interchangable. I've replaced both with the same tool on numerous occasions with no issues.
I will say, however, it took me a few test flares before I really figured it out and kept it from leaking. It is best to buy a small length of line and practice once or twice before the real deal. That being said, it's really easy now and a major time saver.
B

[MakDiesel]

I've planned to cut the old rusty hard lines, replace with good steel, connect with compression, with new fittings on the ends to rid of all the old stuff. Rockauto has a double flare for $20-30. Here's the grocery list:

1. Double-flare tool
2. 20-30" of new steel line (size, off hand?)
3. Line bender (what kind is the easiest/safest for bends?)
4. New fittings for the flared ends (again, size?)
5. compression fittings (I've never used such I assume it's another size question)

Thanks to all who have posted to far, Mak

[theholycow]

If you're flaring then you won't use compression fittings, you'll use flare nuts.

What kind of bends do you need to do? This bend was way, way too sharp to accomplish with the passive die bender available in parts stores for $10, or even the $30 deluxe one. I watched no fewer than 3 parts guys kink hardline trying to bend it for me. I rigged up a jig at home with a better die, filled the line with sand and capped it off to disallow kinking, and bent it...it still wasn't good enough.

[MakDiesel]

I was thinking a compression fitting to join the two straight cut ends (probably on the straight line that runs the length of the driver's door, before it exits to the pump and thus, the rusty side). I would flare and flare nut the other end that connects to the rubber line before it enters the pump, possbily replacing said rubber line as well if the beast won't separate from the old flare nut that caused this problem. I am unsure of the bends off hand, no 90 degree elbow of anything, but I'd like to do this repair with the right tools instead of just hand-bending things like my last brake job (which is leak free 5 years running, but I was desperate to get the car back on the road back then, having only one car).

6. Add a tubing cutter to the list to get clean cuts for the joining ends.

[benfrogg]

My brother picked up (from autozone, I think) a tubing bender for brake lines. Really nice looking finish, far superior to hand bending (and no kinked lines either). I think it was like $5 at the time. Here's the one I think it was:
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/acc...ier=70111_0_0_

This worked well.
You could also use 90degree fittings for tight bends.

Also-
The double flare tool I have requires torquing the wing nuts with a set of pliers or vice grips. It works okay without, but does slip once in a while (thus you have to cut off and start over) without this extra tightening step. I think if the wing nuts were larger, it would be better. It works great with some extra torque!

Good luck!
B

[MakDiesel]

Anyone know stock '85 CRX Si fuel hard line sizes off hand? I've got nothing in Haynes, Chilton, or HELMS. Google wasn't much help in the short time I have b4 bed.

[MakDiesel]

Pulled the pump and for ****s drained/pulled the tank as well to assess the rust's hiding places. Tank is solid if a bit surface rusty on top, sprayed some rust converter on it followed by a HD rubberized undercoating to prevent future holes. Plan to replace all related hoses on the top of the tank for peace of mind. Might even get a wild hair and remove/clean the injectors, the tiny filters tend to crud up.

Turns out the pump was an Airtex E8000, 30gph/113lph, lasted (at least for me, it was on the car when I bought it) 7 years and 60k. I've reordered said E8000 to keep things simple, should be here soon.

Broke all the fuel lines off as they exit the interior to get measurements, bought new steel, waiting on my Lisle flaring tool to arrive in my mailbox to start that surgery.

Still have a few Q's:

- Because the supply line from tank to pump isn't pressurized I can use any ol' fuel hose correct?
- Do I have to run fuel injection (that can take 40+ psi) hose for the vent and return from the hard line as well? (I ask b/c the local O'Reilly's had ZERO fuel pressure rated hose.)
- Anyone have an alternative/replacement for the supply line coming off the pump (the banjo to frame mount to hard line) fuel hose? Mine's iffy. I've heard of peeps bypassing this altogether and running straight hose from pump to hard line, so what's the fuel dampener for if not necessary?

Thanks again for putting up with my (this time fuel) issues, Mak

[GasSavers_Erik]

I don't know what psi the spring loaded relief valve in the gas cap is set at (maybe 3-4 psi) but I'd play it safe and use high pressure hose for everything- even the vent hose and pump supply hose.

[MakDiesel]

Update:

- Gas tank drained, dropped, swished out, sock cleaned, reinstalled.
- All three hard lines cut, new steel bent (PITA like no other), compression unions inside the car.
- New hoses where needed.
- New pump installed, 100x quieter than the last one even though it's the same model.
- Fuel pressure gauge mounted on the filter, tefloned up to prevent leaks, reads ~36-38 lbs.
- New ignition b/c it was the beginning of this endeavor.
- Any metal not covered by paint/undercoating was sprayed liberally with HD rubberized undercoating (exterior steel lines, rusty metal, wheel wells, bottom of gas tank, everything) I HATE RUST.

So far no leaks and she runs fine, although the fuel pressure slowly goes down after the car is off. (Like 20 min later it's fallen to 20 lbs, etc)

After a brake bleed she should be back on the road (it's been years since the last bleed) Thanks for all who helped, Mak

[FrugalFloyd]

Sounds like a bit of overkill, but it's running reliably. Good job!