'85 CRX Si DD won't run longer than 2 seconds, need help on what to test...

[FrugalFloyd]

It's a fuel starvation issue. Electrical issues don't take 2 seconds to develop or appear.

[MakDiesel]

I agree. After checking online for prices on an OEM fuel pump, I'm seeing $220-ish from Majestic Honda, etc! Are they serious? Anyway, anyone know of a better alternative to the real deal genuine OEM part? Rockauto has been hit or miss lately. The ignition I got last week was definitely sub-par but I see now that wasn't my biggest problem. Mak

[benfrogg]

If you can find it in a scrap yard for cheap, I'd do that. I bought a parts car a while back and it's fuel pump has been going strong for about 10k miles. I don't know what the yard price would be... probably not much considering not many people buy them from the yard.

You said you put 12v to the pump with a jumper and no beans? That pretty much guarantees to be either a bad ground (I would spend some time and make sure it's not this) or the fuel pump is bad. A bad ground is easy enough to test; just bring another jumper from a good known ground source over to the pump with your 12v test lead. If the pump fires up, replace the wiring. If it doesn't, it'd DOA for sure.
Good luck!
B

[MakDiesel]

Tested the voltage AT the pump connection = 12v so the pump is officially dead. Then I f-ed everything up... As I was attempting to remove the fuel supply line connection w/ a flare wrench, that 26 year old piece of crap would not budge, instead torquing the hard metal line and creating a small crack/leak that now slowly leaks fuel! I've never tried to repair a fuel hard line so what are my options? Am I screwed? If the process is easy enough I'll replace all exterior hard lines because they look downright awful after some weathered decades. Thanks, Mak

[theholycow]

I've had the same problem on two vehicles. The only proper repair is to replace the line. Acceptable repairs, depending on how you feel about it, may include patching in hardline with compression fittings or using rubber fuel hose (which is surely in use in a couple places on the car; it's not completely unacceptable, although you do need to secure it tight enough for your car's fuel pressure).

[GasSavers_Erik]

I used the rubber hose over metal line method on my old Acura Integra. It worked fine with no leaks. Just be sure that you clean the outside of the metal tubing well and overlap it at least 3-4 inches. Use at least 2 clamps.

[theholycow]

I used that method on my carbureted Buick but I'd be afraid of the pressure required for fuel injection. Even with the carburetor's fuel pump's low pressure I not only used extra clamps but I sealed it (Permatex #1 Form-a-Gasket, IIRC...or possibly [but less likely] gasket shellac.).

[GasSavers_Erik]

The Integra was fuel injected and it was a high pressure fuel line (probably 30-45 psi).

I used the smallest high pressure rated rubber fuel hose that I could find that would still fit over the metal line- so it was a snug fit even before I tightened the hose clamps. I drove the car for 7 more years without any leaks.

I like your idea of using a sealant like permatex or shellac to ensure a good seal.

[benfrogg]

Assuming the lines you are talking about are akin to steel brake lines, re-flaring them is easy if you have the tool. You can save yourself a ton of money doing brake work if you get what's called a, "double flare" tool. Instead of replacing the full length of a line to the next fitting, you can replace just the length you need to get to good steel. I got one of these tools for replacing fuel lines on her 96' civic. I would have had to replace a bunch of really hard to get to lines that run up the firewall, but did not have to. (I had to do brakes too)
Plus, you can re-use the fittings or buy new ones if they are bad. They sell fittings by the bulk (10-20 per package) and are way cheaper. The coiled line is way cheaper too, like less than half the price of buying the premade jobs.

Speaking of that, if there is a fitting not too far from the tank, (I'm sure there's a union there somewhere) you can buy one of the pre-made jobs.

The rubber hose idea is fine, but the double flare setup is really superior. You'll use that tool again and again, I promise.
B

[theholycow]

Where can a double flare tool good for different sizes and proper for fuel lines (as well as brake lines, maybe) be bought at a reasonable price? Now that you mention it I remember considering it for my needs but it didn't work out (probably they were too expensive for me).